Long-chain diol with antimicrobial and mild sebum-regulating activity. Frequently paired with sebacic acid in oil-control formulas.

Fatty acid found in royal jelly. Early research links it to microbiome-balancing properties on oily skin types.

α-Hydroxylated C24 ceramide AP-type with phytosphingosine backbone; the 2-OH group on the acyl chain enables additional hydrogen bonding with adjacent headgroups in the lamellar bilayer, strengthening cohesion; alpha-hydroxy ceramides constitute roughly 5-10% of total stratum corneum ceramide content and are particularly important in the ceramide AP and EOP subtypes.

Ether-bonded lipophilic vitamin C; extreme stability (no oxidation even at 40C/12 months); slow release via esterase cleavage in skin.

Shiseido-developed tyrosinase inhibitor; salicylic acid backbone with methoxy group enhances melanocyte specificity.

Topical postbiotic lysate of mucin-degrading Akkermansia muciniphila; pasteurised cell-fragment fraction (notably the Amuc_1100 outer-membrane protein) is the subject of early skin-barrier studies; emerging evidence only, primarily in-vitro and ex-vivo.

Acetylated form of the dipeptide carnosine (beta-alanyl-L-histidine); greater cell membrane permeability than L-carnosine; protects against glycation, carbonylation, and oxidative damage to structural proteins; studied primarily in ocular context but gaining traction in premium anti-glycation skincare formulations.

Enkephalin-mimicking peptide that modulates sensory nerve signalling. Used in sensitive-skin formulations to reduce reactive discomfort.

N-terminally acetylated form of hexapeptide-4; acetylation at the amino terminus improves metabolic stability against aminopeptidase activity in the stratum corneum, extending the effective concentration reaching fibroblasts; targets the same procollagen I C-terminal receptor pathway as the parent peptide but with an improved half-life in formulation; hydrophilic and compatible with most aqueous systems.

Acetylated form of sodium hyaluronate in which acetyl groups replace some hydroxyl positions on the glucuronic acid residues; the modification reduces the molecule's solubility in water, enabling it to form a more persistent film on the skin surface rather than immediately binding atmospheric moisture; acts as a slow-release hydration depot that extends the effective humectant window; pairs well with high and low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate to deliver surface, mid, and deep-layer hydration; compatible across a broad formulation pH.

Acetylated form of hyaluronic acid with improved skin adhesion. Retains moisture on the surface longer than unmodified sodium hyaluronate.

Proprietary polysaccharide from rapidly-dividing microalgae (Solazyme); contains unique polyols and glucuronides; acts as a biosurfactant and film-forming humectant; in-vitro studies show activation of cell renewal pathways; primarily used in premium anti-aging hydration serums.

Plant callus culture derived from Aloe barbadensis; INCI callus form distinct from aloe vera gel, juice, and extract entries already in catalogue; bioreactor culture concentrates acemannan analogues and polysaccharides without aloin concerns; soothing, hydrating, and barrier-restorative profile; more stable than raw gel in anhydrous systems.

Prebiotic oligosaccharide that selectively feeds beneficial skin bacteria. Supports a balanced microbiome environment.

Prenylated xanthone isolated from Garcinia mangostana pericarp; in-vitro radical-scavenging and COX-2 modulatory activity, with early ex-vivo data on UV-induced erythema models; topical evidence remains preliminary.

High-altitude Epilobium species concentrating oenothein B macrocyclic ellagitannin; in-vitro 5-alpha-reductase inhibition and COX-2 modulation support soothing and sebum-balanced positioning; distinct from Epilobium angustifolium entries by alpine ecotype and polyphenol profile.

Inert mineral powder used as a micro-abrasive in physical exfoliants and as an opacifying and texture-modifying agent in pressed powders; synthetic corundum spheres can be sized precisely for controlled, consistent exfoliation intensity.

Aluminium salt of stearic acid; acts as a gelling agent in oil-phase formulas and as a pigment-binding agent in long-wear colour cosmetics; also improves water resistance in sunscreen and foundation formulas without excessive heaviness.

Seed extract from Amaranthus hypochondriacus; naturally high squalene content (up to 8% in unsaponifiable fraction) supports barrier function and suppleness; squalene precursor pathway provides emollient activity with a lower oxidation propensity than olive-derived squalene; emerging sustainable alternative to shark-derived squalene precursors in bio-based formulation.

Callus culture from Phellodendron amurense; berberine and phellodendrine from callus culture provide antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-tightening activity; huang bai (amur cork bark) is a classical Chinese medicine herb for dampness and heat conditions; INCI callus form; applied in barrier-strengthening and pore-refining formulas.

C20:0 ceramide NS-type with dihydrosphingosine (sphinganine) backbone; complements ceramide NP pool in the stratum corneum; longer-chain sphinganine ceramides support lamellar bilayer thickness and contribute to deep barrier protection; the NS subtype differs from NP in lacking the 4-OH group on the sphingoid base, affecting headgroup hydrogen bonding geometry.

Stem cell callus culture from Argania spinosa; INCI callus form distinct from argan oil entries already in catalogue; callus delivers sterols and polyphenols without the fatty-acid heaviness of the oil; enhanced bioavailability in aqueous formulas; elasticity-supportive and barrier-reinforcing profile.

Callus culture from Arnica montana; callus biotechnology extracts helenalin-free sesquiterpene fractions that preserve anti-inflammatory flavonoids without the contact-sensitiser risk of the raw extract; INCI callus form distinct from arnica flower extract entries; targeted for post-procedure and reactive-skin formulations.

Extract from brine shrimp; shown in in-vitro studies to promote elastic fibre production (elastin, fibrillin) and reduce MMP-1 activity; used in anti-aging formulations targeting skin firmness; limited large-scale clinical evidence but established commercial use.

Stable glucose-bound L-ascorbic acid derivative; alpha-glucosidase cleaves the sugar in vivo releasing free vitamin C.

Fruit-derived extract complementary to the well-catalogued root extract; withanolide and saponin profile differs from root material with comparatively lower withaferin A content and reduced sensitisation potential; topical evidence remains preliminary.

Ketocarotenoid from Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae; unique structure spanning the full lipid bilayer membrane allowing simultaneous radical quenching on both aqueous and lipid bilayer faces; singlet oxygen quenching capacity approximately 500× that of vitamin E in vitro; clinical evidence for topical application includes reduced wrinkle depth, improved skin elasticity, and decreased UV-induced pigment accumulation in controlled trials; inhibits UV-induced MMP-1 and MMP-2; natural orange pigment requires stabilised, encapsulated, or opaque formulation packaging.

Coastal halophyte plant that thrives in salt-stress environments by accumulating osmoprotectants (betaines, proline, polyols); these same molecules provide intense skin hydration and help maintain barrier function under environmental stress; used in premium bio-inspired hydration formulations.

Chain-lattice clay mineral with high adsorptive capacity for oils and surface impurities; used in detox and anti-pollution rinse-off masks; its needle-like crystal morphology imparts a dry, powdery slip distinct from plate-structured clays.

Non-saponifiable fraction of avocado oil, concentrated in phytosterols, triterpene alcohols, and tocopherols; supports collagen synthesis and has anti-inflammatory properties; this fraction holds the primary bioactivity separate from the bulk fatty acids.

Heat-treated lysate of Bifidobacterium breve; in-vitro evidence suggests modulation of UV-induced inflammatory markers and a supportive role in maintaining tight-junction proteins; positioned as a postbiotic adjunct in barrier-recovery routines.

Callus culture from Psoralea corylifolia (babchi seed plant, source of bakuchiol); callus concentrates non-psoralen meroterpene fractions including bakuchiol analogues without the phototoxic psoralen content of raw seed extract; INCI callus form distinct from bakuchiol oil or psoralea seed extract entries; retinol-alternative application profile.

Glycoside derivative of bakuchiol without furanocoumarins. Marketed as a gentler retinol alternative with reduced photosensitivity risk.

Meroterpene phenol from Psoralea corylifolia seed; upregulates types I, III, and IV collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronan synthase via functional retinoid receptor modulation without direct binding; randomised controlled trial data support non-inferiority to 0.5% retinol for photoageing endpoints with significantly less peeling, dryness, and stinging; photostable and considered safe during pregnancy in contrast to vitamin A derivatives.

Glycosylated derivative of bakuchiol; water-soluble form distinct from lipophilic bakuchiol oil entries; enzymatic glycosylation improves stability and aqueous dispersibility without reported skin irritation; emerging evidence for retinol-adjacent activity (RAR/RXR modulation) in water-based serum systems; distinct from psoralea seed or bakuchiol oil entries.

C22 ceramide NP-type with phytosphingosine backbone; distinct from behenoyl sphingosine (NS-type) in long-chain base structure; very-long-chain C22–C24 acyl ceramides are enriched at the outer stratum corneum layers providing the stiffest lamellar bilayer regions; used in ceramide complex formulations to broaden the physiological acyl-chain distribution.

High-swelling smectite clay with strong cation-exchange capacity; absorbs sebum and surface debris in rinse-off masks; negatively charged platelets also attract positively charged pollution particles for a surface-cleansing effect.

Isoquinoline alkaloid from Coptis/Berberis; AMPK activation supports sebum regulation; antimicrobial against C. acnes in vitro.

Symmetrical carotenoid and provitamin A precursor; converted to retinol by intestinal beta-carotene oxygenase; accumulates in the stratum corneum and contributes to warmth in skin colouration at high doses; moderate UVA-absorbing capacity; antioxidant via singlet oxygen quenching and free-radical chain-breaking; oral supplementation evidence for augmented photoprotection is moderate; topical evidence is weaker; commonly included in antioxidant blends and self-tanning formulations contributing natural skin-tone warmth.

Clinically studied postbiotic (La Roche-Posay Toleriane line); demonstrated reduction in skin sensitivity markers and strengthening of the epidermal barrier in randomised trials; one of the best-evidenced topical ferment postbiotics for reactive or sensitive skin.

Callus culture from Vaccinium myrtillus; distinct INCI form from bilberry extract entries; concentrated anthocyanin glycosides from callus culture support collagen cross-linking and mild tyrosinase modulation; superior antioxidant density compared to common blueberry; applied in brightening and firmness serums.

Photo-stabiliser and DNA repair booster. Enhances the photostability of UV filter combinations and supports cellular recovery after UV exposure.

Peptide fraction from Fucus vesiculosus (bladderwrack); INCI peptide form distinct from bladderwrack extract entries; enzymatic hydrolysis yields fucoidin-adjacent peptide complexes with confirmed moisture-retention and mild collagen-supportive activity; iodine-normalised to remove endocrine concern; applied in anti-aging hydration formulas.

Plant-derived fatty alcohol from rapeseed. Functions as a co-emulsifier and texture builder. Gentle alternative to traditional cetearyl alcohol.

Mono- and diglycerides from rapeseed oil. Provides emollient conditioning and co-emulsification with good skin compatibility.

Amino-acid-derived lipid that forms lamellar structures resembling the stratum corneum intercellular matrix. Designed to reinforce barrier architecture. Early studies suggest improved moisture retention in barrier-compromised skin.

Plant callus culture from Buddleja davidii; known for verbascoside and acteoside (antioxidant phenylethanoid glycosides) that confer anti-pollution protection; callus biotechnology isolates the active fraction without the invasive species concern of wild-harvesting; validated in anti-pollution and barrier repair formulas.

Ester of lactic acid with C12-15 fatty alcohol; delivers an elegant dry skin feel with minimal greasiness; the lactic-acid-derived backbone contributes a gentle hydrophilic character and mild skin-softening activity alongside emollient lubrication.

Blend of long-chain fatty alcohols (primarily arachidyl and behenyl). Co-emulsifier and consistency builder that produces rich cream textures. Not to be confused with drying alcohols like denatured alcohol.

Strong alkaline pH adjuster used in depilatory creams and some professional peels. Highly irritating at high concentrations. In finished products it is typically neutralised — the final formula pH determines safety, not the raw ingredient alone.

Calcium salt of stearic acid; functions as a slip agent, anti-caking ingredient, and mild waterproofing agent in pressed powders and talc-free mineral formulas; also contributes a smooth waxy feel that improves pressed-powder adhesion.

Callus culture from Calendula officinalis; distinct INCI form from calendula flower extract or CO2 extract entries; cell culture concentrates triterpenol esters and flavonoids (isorhamnetin, quercetin derivatives) without the pollen-allergen risk of whole flower preparations; soothing and barrier-supportive profile for sensitive and reactive skin.

Stem cell callus culture from Camellia japonica; INCI callus form distinct from camellia seed oil (tsubaki oil) already in catalogue; cell culture concentrates polyphenolic catechins and oleanolic acid in a stable water-dispersible form; barrier-strengthening and mild anti-aging profile used in Japanese prestige formulations.

Self-emulsifying ester used as a solubiliser for oil-soluble actives. Improves bioavailability of poorly water-soluble ingredients.

Callus culture from Daucus carota; beta-carotene pathway metabolites and falcarinol precursors from callus culture support skin barrier and mild collagen synthesis; INCI callus form distinct from carrot seed oil or carrot root extract entries; callus eliminates colour transfer of raw carrot extracts; applied in barrier and firmness formulas.

Plant callus culture form of Centella asiatica; biotechnology process enriches asiaticoside, madecassoside, and asiatic acid fractions while bypassing field-grown contamination risks; complements the existing centella extract and TECA entries with a cell-culture INCI distinct from whole-plant material.

Lipophilic tranexamic acid ester; enhanced stratum corneum penetration vs free form; plasmin inhibition reduces UV-induced melanogenesis.

Plant callus culture from Matricaria chamomilla; INCI callus form distinct from chamomile flower extract or blue chamomile oil entries; apigenin and bisabolol precursor fractions from callus culture provide soothing and barrier-hydrating activity without azulene colour instability; calming profile for reactive and redness-prone skin.

Model organism microalgae; rich in photosynthetic antioxidants and plant sterols; supports mitochondrial function and skin oxygenation; used in premium anti-pollution and barrier-repair formulations.

Peptide fraction from Chlorella vulgaris; INCI peptide form distinct from chlorella extract or powder entries; hydrolysis yields nucleotide-peptide complexes (CGF) with documented wound-healing, collagen-stimulating, and cell-renewal activity; strong mechanistic evidence for barrier and firmness application; established in advanced formulation.

Flavone from Passiflora caerulea and propolis; inhibits aromatase (CYP19A1) reducing local oestrogen conversion in subcutaneous fat; explored in topical formulations targeting periorbital dark circles as oestrogen contributes to haemoglobin deposition in periocular vasculature; anti-inflammatory via NF-κB pathway; antioxidant and mild tyrosinase-inhibiting; skin penetration requires cyclodextrin or liposomal delivery in most applications; topical evidence base is limited.

Cold-pressed oil from Arctic cloudberry seeds; exceptional fatty acid profile with alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), linoleic acid (omega-6), and rare omega-9 in near-balanced ratio; naturally high in tocopherols and phytosterols; supports barrier lipid recovery and calms inflammatory skin; premium Nordic skincare ingredient.

Plant callus culture from Coffea arabica; callus form distinct from any coffee berry or seed extract entries; caffeic acid derivatives and chlorogenic acid analogs provide antioxidant and mild brightening activity without the caffeine variability of raw extracts; used in targeted correction serums.

Smallest collagen-sequence peptide; low MW enables dermal penetration; fibroblast proliferation signal in vitro.

Copper-complexed NMF derivative. Combines the humectant properties of PCA with the cofactor role of copper in lysyl oxidase and superoxide dismutase.

Plant callus culture from Centaurea cyanus; anthocyanin-related glycosides and apigenin derivatives from callus culture support vascular tone and calming; INCI callus form distinct from cornflower water or flower extract entries; widely used in eye-area and redness-prone formulas; callus avoids seasonal harvest variability.

Extract from Japanese cedar; contains ferulate esters, diterpenes, and biflavonoids; antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity; used in Japanese-inspired skincare formulations for sensitive and redness-prone skin.

Cold-pressed oil with a high linoleic acid content and naturally occurring phytosterols. Lightweight and non-comedogenic. The linoleic profile supports barrier function without adding heaviness.

Ten-amino-acid peptide derived from thymosin beta-4 sequence; stimulates collagen synthesis and fibronectin production; accelerates wound healing and tissue regeneration; anti-inflammatory via cytokine modulation; widely used in Korean advanced cosmetics and post-procedure recovery serums; supports both acute repair and chronic anti-aging matrix remodelling.

Ten amino acid peptide proposed to modulate the innate immune response by inhibiting TLR (toll-like receptor) 2 and 4 signalling, which are activated by UV, bacteria, and environmental pollutants; downstream reduction in IL-6 and IL-8 release is the proposed mechanism for calming visible surface redness; supplier-sponsored split-face studies suggest benefit in reactive skin types; independent replications are limited.

Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP-1 and MMP-2) inhibitory peptide; prevents enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin in the extracellular matrix; preserves ECM structural integrity under UV and oxidative stress; works synergistically with collagen-stimulating peptides by simultaneously blocking degradation and promoting synthesis; a dual-pathway aging intervention in a single ingredient.

Stabilised gallic acid derivative that targets melanocyte dendricity. Acts earlier in the pigmentation cascade than tyrosinase inhibitors.

Plant-derived emollient ester used as a natural alternative to silicones. Provides a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

Synthetic analogue of oat avenanthramides. Calms visible redness by supporting the skin comfort response. Well tolerated at low concentrations.

Melanin biosynthesis intermediate used in progressive self-tanning formulations; oxidises to eumelanin polymer on skin surface.

Glycation inhibitor. Prevents sugar-induced collagen cross-linking, which contributes to loss of skin elasticity over time.

High-molecular-weight polymeric ester that provides long-lasting emolliency and glossy skin feel without migration. Widely used in lip products, tinted moisturisers, and luxury face oils for a cushioned, non-sticky finish.

Chroman-ring antioxidant that scavenges both reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species. Dual-pathway radical neutralisation is uncommon among topical antioxidants.

C18 alpha-omega dicarboxylic acid acting as a PPAR-gamma modulator; clinical studies report incremental improvement in surface pigmentation and seborrhoea over 8-12 weeks at 2% in leave-on systems; distinct from azelaic acid in chain length and mechanism.

Flavone glycoside from citrus peel; well-established venotonic with strong oral clinical evidence for chronic venous insufficiency; topical skin evidence is limited compared with its oral record; inhibits prostaglandin and thromboxane synthesis, reduces capillary permeability, and reinforces microvascular wall integrity; explored in topical formulations for fragile capillary management and periorbital vascular congestion; typically combined with hesperidin methyl chalcone in venotonic skincare.

UVA/UVB benzophenone filter; older generation with photoallergy and endocrine-disruption concerns — largely superseded by newer filters.

Aspartate-cysteine dipeptide that serves as a glutathione precursor. May enhance endogenous antioxidant capacity and support pheomelanin pathway over eumelanin.

Hydrophilic dipeptide with proposed anti-inflammatory activity through inhibition of NF-κB signalling; the tryptophan residue contributes antioxidant character via its indole ring; studied for calming visible surface redness associated with environmental stress; favoured in post-procedure and sensitivity-focused formulations; water-soluble, no known stability concerns at typical serum and cream pH.

Anti-inflammatory dipeptide targeting calming of environmentally stressed skin; mechanistic studies in supplier dossiers suggest modulation of prostaglandin E2 synthesis via COX-2 pathway inhibition in stimulated keratinocytes; complements dipeptide-7 in calming-focused formulations; water-soluble and compatible with standard aqueous systems; low molecular weight allows diffusion through hydrophilic transdermal pathways.

Inorganic phosphate salt used as a buffering agent and pH stabiliser. Keeps product pH within a narrow range over time, which is especially important for formulas containing pH-sensitive actives like vitamin C or acids.

Peptide fraction from Palmaria palmata (dulse); INCI peptide form distinct from palmaria or dulse extract entries; R-phycoerythrin-derived peptides from hydrolysis provide antioxidant and mild collagen-supportive activity; sustainably harvested cold-water red alga; applied in barrier and firmness formulas with a clean marine provenance story.

Bio-transformed extract of the salt-tolerant green microalga Dunaliella salina; fermentation increases bioavailability of beta-carotene and zeaxanthin alongside postbiotic polysaccharides generated by the bacterial ferment medium.

Plant callus culture from Echinacea purpurea; INCI callus form distinct from echinacea root or aerial extract entries; alkylamide and chicoric acid fractions from callus culture show immunomodulatory and barrier-supportive activity in early skin models; applied in post-exposure recovery and barrier repair formulas.

Peptide fraction from Ecklonia cava; phlorotannin-associated peptides from enzymatic hydrolysis have moderate evidence for anti-inflammatory and photoprotective-supportive activity; Jeju Island source highly valued in K-beauty; INCI peptide form distinct from ecklonia cava extract entries; applied in redness calming and antioxidant serums.

Cyclic imino acid extremolyte produced by halophilic bacteria as an osmotic stress response; forms a stable hydration shell around macromolecules and membranes at concentrations as low as 1%; reduces lipid raft disruption caused by surfactants and UV radiation by stabilising plasma membrane bilayers; clinical evidence supports reduction of transepidermal water loss and skin redness with 1–2% topical application; inhibits mast cell degranulation; studied in post-UV and post-pollution barrier-recovery formulations.

Full INCI form of ectoin, the extremolyte amino-acid derivative produced by halophilic bacteria; preferential exclusion mechanism stabilises stratum-corneum hydration and proteins under osmotic and UV stress; cross-references existing ectoin entries.

Plant stem cell callus from edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum); high altitude extremophile adapted to UV and oxidative stress; callus culture INCI form distinct from alcoholic extract entries; leontopodic acid and bisabolane sesquiterpenes deliver antioxidant and collagen-supportive activity; featured in Swiss premium skincare.

Plant callus culture of Leontopodium alpinum; concentrates leontopodic acid A and B and chlorogenic acid fractions with strong free-radical-scavenging behaviour in vitro; distinct INCI from leontopodium alpinum extract / flower entries.

UVB filter with high molar extinction; restricted in EU to 4% max; endocrine-disruption debate ongoing — caution flag.

Recombinant growth factor stimulating keratinocyte proliferation; regulatory grey area in EU cosmetics; caution flag for prolonged use debates.

Naturally occurring thiohistidine betaine synthesised by fungi and bacteria; actively transported into human cells via the OCTN1 transporter, accumulating in high-UV-exposure tissues including cornea and melanocytes; directly quenches singlet oxygen, peroxynitrite, and hydroxyl radicals at concentrations lower than ascorbic acid equivalents; inhibits melanogenesis by suppressing MITF expression downstream of UV exposure; clinical evidence emerging from topical application trials for UV-induced pigmentation modulation.

Lipophilic ester of ferulic acid with improved stability and skin penetration over the free acid. Retains the UV-absorbing and antioxidant properties of ferulic acid.

Mimetic of superoxide dismutase and catalase. Self-regenerating antioxidant that neutralises free radicals without being consumed.

Photostabiliser preventing avobenzone degradation; does not absorb UV itself but extends SPF stability by triplet-state quenching.

Mixed-chain oligosaccharide blend produced by controlled fermentation, used as a substrate for commensal skin microbiota; topical prebiotic positioning with emerging in-vivo support; distinct from fructooligosaccharide and inulin entries.

Hydroxycinnamic acid from plant cell walls; best studied as a vitamin C and E potentiator — combination of 15% ascorbic acid, 1% alpha-tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid demonstrated 8-fold enhancement of UV protection versus vitamin C alone in human skin explant research; ferulic acid stabilises ascorbic acid against oxidative degradation and enhances penetration of lipophilic co-antioxidants; direct antioxidant via phenolic hydrogen donation; absorbs UV across 300–380 nm augmenting photoprotection when formulated at sufficient concentration.

Flavonol from strawberries, apples, and persimmon; senolytic activity demonstrated in cell studies via apoptosis induction in p21-positive senescent fibroblasts; directly inhibits PI3K/mTOR and activates AMPK/SIRT1 pathways; potent antioxidant with iron-chelating capacity; anti-inflammatory via NF-κB and MAPK inhibition; topical evidence is early-stage given interest in seno-targeted skincare; poorly water-soluble, requiring amphiphilic or nanoparticle delivery systems.

Ferment from Schizosaccharomyces pombe; distinct from Saccharomyces entries; fermentation metabolites include peptides and beta-glucan fragments that support melanin regulation and surface-texture improvement; emerging use in brightening and microbiome-adjacent formulas; well-characterised model organism with increasingly documented cosmetic activity.

Carbon-cage molecule that can quench multiple free radicals per molecule. In-vitro antioxidant capacity exceeds conventional scavengers. Topical delivery relies on specialised solubilisation.

Neurotransmitter used topically as a mild muscle-relaxant analogue. Marketed for expression-line smoothing, with limited independent evidence.

Inhibitory neurotransmitter analog; topical claims focus on micro-tension relaxation, but penetration data remains thin.

Single-sugar ceramide (cerebroside) involved in lipid organisation within the stratum corneum. May reinforce the intercellular lipid lamellae that prevent transepidermal water loss.

Diterpene alcohol in the mevalonate pathway. Topically, early data suggests support for mitochondrial function in skin cells.

Isoprenoid lipid that may support dermal matrix proteins. Early studies point to improved skin density with continued use.

Peptide fraction from Macrocystis pyrifera (giant kelp); INCI peptide form distinct from any giant kelp extract entries; alginic acid-adjacent peptide complexes support skin water-retention and barrier glycocalyx assembly; one of the fastest-growing organisms on Earth with high sustainable yield; emerging Pacific Coast premium marine ingredient in clean formulation.

Branched mannose-glucose polysaccharide from konjac tuber; high water-holding capacity and film-forming behaviour at low percentages; topical use as a humectant and thickener with mild barrier-supportive feel; distinct from konjac root powder cleansing forms.

Water-soluble citrus flavonoid. Modulates microcirculation and may help with visible redness and uneven tone.

Natural osmolyte produced by the cyanobacterium Anabaena sp. in response to salt stress; commercially produced by enzymatic synthesis (Glycoin by BASF); maintains hydration under low-humidity and high-stress conditions; shown to increase skin moisture and reduce TEWL; suitable for sensitive and compromised barrier skin.

Enzymatically transglycosylated rutin; the added glucose unit renders it water-soluble (native rutin is poorly soluble) and improves bioavailability; potent capillary-protective: strengthens capillary walls and reduces permeability, directly addressing diffuse facial redness of vascular origin; strong antioxidant; anti-inflammatory; used in eye-area treatments for dark circles via microvascular effects; longer shelf stability than native rutin.

Long-chain glycerol ester that functions as a consistency factor and co-emulsifier. Forms lamellar liquid-crystal structures that mimic the intercellular lipid matrix, supporting barrier-repair formulations.

Soybean germ extract distinct from soybean seed or fermented soybean entries; uniquely enriched in isoflavones (genistein, daidzein), phosphatidylcholine, and tocopherols from the embryo fraction; studies show improvements in skin firmness, photoprotection, and pigmentation reduction; the germ fraction shows enhanced bioactivity versus whole seed extract.

Plant callus culture derived from Vitis vinifera; distinct INCI form from generic grape stem cell label names already catalogued; resveratrol-related polyphenol content supports antioxidant and mild anti-glycation activity; bioreactor-grown cells provide sustainable supply; common in K-beauty and Swiss premium formulations.

Callus culture from Lithospermum erythrorhizon; shikonin and acetylshikonin naphthoquinones from callus culture show tyrosinase inhibition and anti-inflammatory activity with moderate clinical evidence; biotechnology production avoids overharvesting of this endangered plant; INCI callus form likely absent from standard entries; used in brightening and calming serums.

Deep-blue sesquiterpene with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, naturally derived from chamomile or guaiac wood oil. Soothes irritation and gives products a distinctive blue tint.

Cold-pressed from guava seeds; one of the highest linoleic acid concentrations (~70%) among tropical fruit seed oils; lightweight and fast-absorbing with antioxidant carotenoid co-actives from the fruit; suited to oily and combination skin formulas.

Chemically crosslinked hyaluronic acid network forming a hydrogel matrix at the skin surface; longer surface residence time than linear hyaluronic acid with reduced tackiness; distinct INCI from standard sodium hyaluronate entries.

Tubular aluminosilicate clay with a hollow lumen suited to active encapsulation for controlled release; also absorbs sebum and provides a soft-focus blurring effect in loose and pressed powder formulas.

Trioctahedral smectite clay rich in lithium and magnesium; forms transparent gels at low concentrations; preferred over opacifying clays in clear serums and setting sprays where gel structure is needed without whitening.

Commercially Melanostatine (Lipotrue); competitive antagonist at MC1R (melanocyte-stimulating hormone receptor); prevents alpha-MSH receptor binding → downstream reduction in cAMP → reduced MITF expression → reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis; brightening mechanism is upstream of tyrosinase, distinct from kojic acid or arbutin; suited to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and UV-induced uneven tone.

Seven amino acid peptide designed to inhibit melanogenesis at the post-receptor level; proposed mechanism involves downregulation of MITF (microphthalmia-associated transcription factor), the master regulator of melanocyte differentiation and tyrosinase gene expression; in vitro studies in B16 melanoma cells show dose-dependent reduction in melanin content at 1–10 ppm; the upstream MITF target means it acts independently of, and additively with, tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid and arbutin.

Methyl chalcone derivative of hesperidin (citrus flavanone glycoside); improved transcutaneous penetration compared with parent hesperidin due to altered polarity; venotonic — strengthens capillary walls by inhibiting hyaluronidase and elastase acting on vessel endothelium; supports microcirculation and reduces visible redness from capillary fragility; used in formulations targeting periorbital dark circles, rosacea-related redness, and fragile capillary patterns; anti-oedema properties support use in decongesting eye-area products.

Hexapeptide that acts as a competitive antagonist of α-MSH (alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone) at the MC1R receptor on melanocytes, reducing cyclic AMP-mediated induction of tyrosinase and MITF; the mechanism is upstream of tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid or arbutin, targeting the transcriptional pathway before enzyme synthesis; may complement downstream tyrosinase inhibitors in a multi-pathway brightening regimen; peptide approach reduces the risk of irritation seen with some small-molecule brighteners.

Registered PCPC hexapeptide in the higher-numbered sequence; six-amino-acid sequence with skin-conditioning classification; limited published topical data; included in selective advanced peptide complex formulations targeting comprehensive peptide-class coverage; part of the growing generation of registered skin peptides beyond the established lower-number actives.

Registered PCPC hexapeptide in the higher-numbered sequence; six-amino-acid sequence with skin-conditioning classification; limited published topical clinical data; used in advanced peptide blend formulations targeting broader signal-peptide-class coverage; newer generation registered peptide adjacent to hexapeptide-19 and hexapeptide-37 which are better characterised.

Registered PCPC hexapeptide in the higher-numbered sequence; six-amino-acid sequence with skin-conditioning and anti-aging classification; limited published topical data; incorporated into comprehensive signal peptide formulations; part of the emerging registry of hexapeptide actives extending beyond the originally characterised acetyl hexapeptide and lower-number series.

Multi-functional hexapeptide found in skin and scalp formulations; strengthens epidermal barrier function by supporting tight junction and lamellar body protein expression; mild anti-inflammatory secondary effects; compatible with most actives; used in premium moisturisers and barrier-repair products targeting dehydrated or compromised skin.

Signal peptide with sequence identity to the C-terminal propeptide of procollagen I; the tripeptide K-T-T-K motif interacts with membrane-bound receptors on fibroblasts to upregulate collagen I and elastin synthesis; structurally distinct from palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) but overlapping mechanism; useful at 2–5 ppm in serums; pairs well with vitamin C and retinoids for additive elasticity support.

Skin renewal hexapeptide that stimulates epidermal cell turnover and extracellular matrix protein production; used in anti-aging formulations targeting surface texture refinement and fine line reduction; compatible with retinoids and exfoliating acids in layered PM protocols.

Newer-generation hexapeptide targeting skin renewal and anti-aging matrix support; appears in advanced professional cosmetic product lines focused on firmness and texture refinement; limited published mechanistic data but established commercial application in premium anti-aging serums; best used in combination protocols alongside signal peptides with stronger evidence such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 or tripeptide-38.

Multi-target brightening agent. Inhibits tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 simultaneously. Better tolerated than hydroquinone at comparable concentrations.

Zwitterionic betaine compound originally identified as an osmoprotectant in marine invertebrates including sea urchins and molluscs; in marine organisms it protects cells from osmotic stress and UV-induced oxidative load; proposed skin benefits include similar osmoregulatory stabilisation of keratinocytes under environmental stress, and antioxidant activity via free radical scavenging; water-soluble across all pH ranges; used in formulations targeting UV-stressed and sensitised skin; limited independent human trial data but promising in vitro antioxidant profiling.

Olive oil hydrogenated to a solid butter-like consistency; retains some squalene and minor phenolic content; used as a structuring and conditioning agent in balms and rich creams, contributing a smooth non-greasy occlusive feel.

Hydrogenated (saturated) form of phosphatidylcholine; greater oxidative stability than native lecithin PC; excellent skin-identical lipid that integrates into the stratum corneum lipid matrix; used in liposomal delivery systems and barrier-repair emulsions; preferred over unsaturated PC in formulations requiring longer shelf life.

Fully saturated synthetic hydrocarbon emollient with excellent oxidative stability. Provides a light, non-tacky occlusive layer. Often chosen over squalane in formulas requiring extended shelf life.

Fragments of deoxyribonucleic acid used as a hydrating and film-forming active. The nucleotide fragments bind water at the skin surface. Evidence for anti-ageing activity beyond hydration remains limited.

Enzymatically or acid-hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate with average molecular weight typically below 50 kDa; smaller fragments diffuse further into the upper stratum corneum; distinct INCI from sodium hyaluronate and sodium acetylated hyaluronate entries.

Non-ionic water-soluble cellulose ether; multifunctional rheology modifier, film former, and thickener; forms a smooth film on skin that retains moisture; widely used in serums and gels as the primary texture agent; excellent safety profile with decades of use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Commercially Sebokalyne (Sederma); modulates sebum secretion by reducing 5-alpha-reductase type I/II activity and suppressing lipogenic gene expression (SREBP-1, FAS) in sebocytes; visibly reduces pore size over 4-6 weeks of use; mild keratolytic secondary effect reduces follicular cast formation; often combined with niacinamide, zinc PCA or salicylic acid for synergistic sebum control in oily-skin and pore-minimising formulations.

Xylose-derived C-glycoside developed by L'Oréal Research; acts as a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) booster by stimulating the synthesis of type VII collagen and proteoglycans in the dermo-epidermal junction, particularly fibronectin and chondroitin sulphate; strengthens the structural anchorage between the dermis and epidermis; clinical results published by L'Oréal show statistically significant improvements in skin density and firmness versus placebo in a 4-month double-blind study; water-soluble and formulated at 0.1–1% in most commercially available products.

Cationic hyaluronate derivative that binds to the negatively charged skin surface. Resists wash-off better than neutral HA forms.

Iron chelator used in under-eye formulations. May reduce the blue-purple appearance of dark circles caused by haemoglobin degradation products in the periorbital area.

Synthetic short-chain ubiquinone analogue with improved cellular uptake versus coenzyme Q10; water-soluble tail modification allows broader formulation use; accepted as electron donor in the mitochondrial electron transport chain supporting cellular ATP production; outperformed vitamin C, vitamin E, kinetin, and coenzyme Q10 individually in a published comparative antioxidant skin-protection score assay; inhibits lipid peroxidation in cell membranes and UV-induced reactive oxygen species; yellow-orange colour requires formulation in pigmented or skin-coloured bases.

Synthetic short-chain benzoquinone; higher antioxidant potency than CoQ10 on EPR assay; penetrates mitochondrial membrane more readily.

Prebiotic polysaccharide from chicory root. Selectively nourishes commensal bacteria on the skin surface, supporting microbiome balance.

Lightweight synthetic hydrocarbon emollient with an exceptionally dry, silicone-like skin feel. Non-comedogenic and odourless. Often used in primer and sunscreen formulas where a matte, non-greasy finish is required.

Lightweight diol humectant and solvent with mild antimicrobial properties. Produces a fresh, non-sticky finish in water-light formulas.

Synthetic peptide that mimics transglutaminase cross-linking bonds. May promote cornified envelope formation and improve skin surface texture.

3-methyl ether metabolite of quercetin formed in vivo by COMT-mediated methylation; more lipophilic than parent quercetin, enabling greater membrane permeability in skin cells; direct antioxidant, photoprotective (absorbs UV-A at ~360 nm), and NF-κB inhibitor; inhibits melanogenesis at the transcriptional level by reducing MITF and tyrosinase expression; found in sea-buckthorn and gorse extracts commonly listed in brightening formulations; frequently co-present with quercetin and kaempferol in plant extracts.

Diosmetin-7-O-rutinoside from citrus peel and other plant sources; antioxidant flavonoid glycoside; vascular-protective via capillary integrity mechanisms similar to diosmin; inhibits inflammatory mediators and prostaglandin synthesis; used in formulations targeting diffuse redness, vascular-origin skin tone irregularities, and sensitive skin; commonly present in standardised citrus bioflavonoid complexes used in skincare.

Bio-sourced ester derived from isosorbide (glucose fermentation) and saccharin; green-chemistry alternative to traditional solvents; improves active ingredient solubility and penetration; good skin tolerability; distinct from isosorbide dicaprylate already in catalogue; positioned in sustainable premium formulation.

Callus culture from Coptis japonica; berberine-type isoquinoline alkaloids from callus culture support sebum regulation, antimicrobial activity against C. acnes, and mild exfoliation; distinct INCI form from coptis extract or berberine ingredient entries; traditionally used in kampo medicine for inflammatory skin conditions; pores and texture focus.

Widely distributed flavonol from tea, broccoli, and medicinal plants; promotes keratinocyte migration and proliferation in wound-healing models via FAK and ERK1/2 phosphorylation; inhibits UVB-induced IL-6 and PGE2 synthesis; upregulates type I procollagen and suppresses MMP-1 expression in dermal fibroblasts; anti-inflammatory via NF-κB and AP-1 inhibition; antioxidant and metal-chelating; poor aqueous solubility necessitates oil-based or nanoparticle delivery for topical formulations.

Australian botanical with one of the highest natural vitamin C concentrations. Also contains ellagic acid and gallic acid.

INCI extract form of Pleurotus eryngii; label name king oyster mushroom already present but INCI-specific extract entry absent; ergothioneine and pleuran polysaccharides from this species deliver antioxidant and barrier activity; particularly high ergothioneine compared to other culinary mushrooms; use for barrier and texture refinement.

Peptide fraction from Ascophyllum nodosum (knotted wrack); INCI peptide form distinct from ascophyllum extract entries; sulfated fucan-peptide conjugates from hydrolysis support matrix metalloproteinase inhibition and surface texture improvement; sustainable wild Atlantic seaweed source; applied in anti-aging texture-refinement formulas.

Callus culture from Sophora flavescens; matrine and oxymatrine alkaloids from callus culture deliver anti-inflammatory and anti-pruritic activity with good in-vitro evidence; ku shen root is among the most studied TCM herbs for inflammatory dermatological conditions; INCI callus form provides standardised concentration without raw extract variability.

Ferment filtrate of Levilactobacillus brevis (formerly Lactobacillus brevis, reclassified 2020); heterofermentative strain producing exopolysaccharides with antioxidant and film-forming properties; brevin bacteriocins have antimicrobial activity; EPS fraction explored for skin hydration and microbiome-modulating applications; new genus INCI follows 2020-2021 Lactobacillaceae reclassification.

Ferment filtrate of Lentilactobacillus buchneri (formerly Lactobacillus buchneri, reclassified 2020); heterofermentative metabolism produces 1,2-propanediol alongside lactic and acetic acids; organic acid profile contributes to mild exfoliation and pH buffering; EPS fraction explored for topical hydration; new genus INCI follows 2020-2021 Lactobacillaceae reclassification.

New-genus INCI for Lacticaseibacillus casei ferment filtrate (formerly Lactobacillus casei, reclassified 2020); distinct INCI from the legacy Lactobacillus casei entry; rich in immunomodulatory peptidoglycans and lipoteichoic acids engaging TLR2 signalling; well-documented in oral probiotic research and increasingly in topical skin microbiome formulations.

Ferment filtrate of Lactobacillus crispatus (genus unchanged in 2020 reclassification); dominant vaginal Lactobacillus with strong lactic acid and hydrogen peroxide production inhibiting pathogen growth; topical filtrate explored for intimate-hygiene and microbiome-protective skin formulations; lactic acid and bacteriocin fraction support gentle antimicrobial and pH-regulating activity.

Ferment filtrate of Limosilactobacillus fermentum (formerly Lactobacillus fermentum, reclassified 2020); produces glutathione and iron-chelating metabolites supporting keratinocyte redox balance; antioxidant metabolites and short-chain fatty acids in filtrate support anti-inflammatory skin tone; new genus INCI follows 2020-2021 Lactobacillaceae reclassification.

Ferment filtrate of Lactobacillus gasseri (genus unchanged in 2020 reclassification); commensal skin and vaginal strain producing gassericins active against Staphylococcus species; exopolysaccharide fraction shows skin moisturising and microbiome-modulating potential in early topical studies; emerging in postbiotic skincare targeting acne-related dysbiosis.

Ferment filtrate of Lactobacillus jensenii (genus unchanged in 2020 reclassification); commensal strain with strong D-lactic acid production profile; metabolite fraction explored for gentle skin pH buffering and C. acnes suppression; emerging in microbiome-targeted topical formulations for acne-prone skin; bacteriocin jensenii has narrow-spectrum antimicrobial activity.

Ferment filtrate of Lacticaseibacillus paracasei (formerly Lactobacillus paracasei, reclassified 2020); produces neutral protease and lipase that may enhance penetration of co-formulated actives; paracin bacteriocin active against gram-positive organisms; clinical evidence of reduced Th2-biased inflammation in mild atopic dermatitis; new genus INCI follows 2020-2021 Lactobacillaceae reclassification.

Postbiotic lysate of Lacticaseibacillus paracasei (2020 reclassification from Lactobacillus); peptidoglycan and lipoteichoic acid fractions modulate keratinocyte cytokine response in in-vitro models; used in microbiome-supportive and reactivity-prone formulations.

Ferment filtrate of Limosilactobacillus reuteri (formerly Lactobacillus reuteri, reclassified 2020 IJSEM); reuterin and reutericin bacteriocins from this strain have demonstrated antimicrobial activity toward C. acnes and dysbiotic skin microorganisms; metabolites modulate TLR2 innate immune signalling toward anti-inflammatory tone; this new genus INCI introduced following the major 2020-2021 Lactobacillaceae reclassification.

Postbiotic lysate of the reclassified Limosilactobacillus reuteri (formerly Lactobacillus reuteri); contains heat-killed cell wall fragments and exopolysaccharides associated with TLR-mediated barrier signalling; non-viable form is shelf-stable and well tolerated in leave-on systems.

Ferment filtrate of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus (formerly Lactobacillus rhamnosus, reclassified 2020); well-studied probiotic with documented immunomodulatory activity; secreted metabolites shown to reduce Th2-biased inflammation; exopolysaccharides contribute to skin-feel and moisture retention; clinical evidence in atopic dermatitis contexts; new genus INCI follows 2020-2021 Lactobacillaceae reclassification.

Ferment filtrate of Ligilactobacillus salivarius (formerly Lactobacillus salivarius, reclassified 2020); produces salivaricin bacteriocins with activity against gram-positive organisms including C. acnes and S. aureus; lysate and filtrate fractions explored for microbiome-management formulations targeting acne and dysbiosis patterns; new genus INCI follows 2020-2021 reclassification.

Ferment filtrate from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum (genus reclassified from Lactobacillus in 2020; products may still list old INCI name); rich in bacteriocins, short-chain fatty acids, and bioactive peptides; polysaccharide fraction provides moisturising activity; lactic acid content delivers mild exfoliation and brightening; barrier-strengthening via ceramide synthesis modulation; both old and new INCI names may appear on product labels.

Distinct from lactococcus ferment lysate; filtrate form retains different bioactive fraction including bacteriocins and exopolysaccharides; microbiome-modulating; supports skin barrier and hydration; well-tolerated by sensitive skin.

Glycosphingolipid found naturally in the epidermis. Participates in keratinocyte differentiation signalling and lamellar body formation for barrier function.

Mixture of Ile-Pro-Pro (IPP) and Val-Pro-Pro (VPP) tripeptides derived from casein fermentation by Lactobacillus helveticus; originally characterised as ACE (angiotensin-converting enzyme) inhibitors via oral administration; topical application studied for skin barrier support and modulation of metalloproteinase activity in UV-stressed skin; proline-containing sequences are recognised by fibroblast collagen receptors, providing a biological rationale for matrix support activity; used in anti-ageing and firming concentrates.

Cholesterol biosynthesis precursor; supports lamellar lipid bilayer integrity; studied for lens-opacity reduction but topical barrier use is emerging.

European larch bark; rich in arabinogalactan polysaccharides and flavonoids (taxifolin/dihydroquercetin); prebiotic effect on skin microbiome and antioxidant/anti-inflammatory activity; used as a multifunctional skin conditioning and microbiome-supporting active.

Plant callus culture from Lavandula angustifolia; INCI callus form distinct from lavender essential oil or hydrosol entries; callus avoids linalool and linalyl acetate sensitisation risk of the essential oil while retaining rosmarinic acid and luteolin fractions; calming and moisture-balancing profile for sensitive and redness-prone skin.

Plant callus culture from Citrus limon; callus form is phototoxic-psoralen-free unlike expressed lemon peel oil, making it safe in daytime brightening formulas; citrus flavonoids support tyrosinase modulation; distinct INCI form from lemon peel extract and essential oil entries.

Legume extract rich in oligosaccharides, plant proteins, and polyphenols; early research shows barrier-supportive and soothing activity; the dense polysaccharide content provides prebiotic-like humectancy at the skin surface.

Postbiotic lysate from Leuconostoc species fermentation; contains cell wall fragments, peptides, and fermentation metabolites; reinforces skin microbiome competitive exclusion against pathogenic organisms; reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8) in keratinocyte assays; strengthens epidermal tight junction integrity; compatible with other probiotic-derived ingredients in microbiome-supportive formulations; distinct from other leuconostoc species with unique metabolite profiles.

Extract derived from Leuconostoc kimchii, the primary fermenting organism in traditional Korean kimchi; postbiotic complex containing lacticin, mesentericin and species-specific bacteriocins; anti-inflammatory and microbiome-balancing effects in keratinocyte assays; used in K-beauty formulations for sensitive skin barrier support; distinct microorganism and metabolite profile from other Leuconostoc species including L. mesenteroides.

Plant callus culture from Syringa vulgaris; linocinnamarin and syringin glucosides from callus culture show anti-inflammatory and mast-cell-stabilising activity in early in-vitro studies; calming application profile for sensitive and reactive skin; INCI callus form distinct from any lilac extract or essential oil entries.

Flavonoid O-glycoside (acacetin-7-O-rutinoside) from Linaria vulgaris, acacia flowers, chrysanthemum, and other plants; anti-inflammatory via COX and LOX pathway inhibition; mild analgesic/sedative properties suggesting calming topical activity; antioxidant; gentle enough for sensitive skin; used in European herbal skincare traditions for soothing and redness-reduction applications.

Polyunsaturated C18:2 ceramide NP variant; linoleyl chain incorporated into lamellar lipid bodies contributes barrier flexibility; linoleic acid deficiency in skin ceramides is directly implicated in impaired barrier function and pro-inflammatory conditions; topical linoleoyl ceramides may help compensate for this deficiency in dry and sensitised skin types.

Synthetic chromanyl antioxidant that scavenges both reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. Used in premium anti-oxidant cocktails.

Flavanone O-glucoside isolated from Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice root); acts on pigmentation through a mechanism distinct from most brighteners — stimulates melanin dispersal (redistribution away from the skin surface) rather than inhibiting melanin synthesis; in a randomised double-blind 4-week trial, 1% liquiritin cream outperformed vehicle in participants with melasma; lower irritation potential than hydroquinone or high-concentration kojic acid; pairs well with tyrosinase inhibitors for complementary pathway coverage.

Synthetic hectorite analogue that produces crystal-clear thixotropic gels with excellent stability across a wide pH range; widely used in transparent setting sprays, lightweight gel serums, and mineral pigment-suspension formulas.

Calcified red algae extract supplying bioavailable calcium, magnesium, and trace minerals in a porous matrix; used in mineral-rich barrier-support formulations; INCI spelling variant of the lithothamnion form already catalogued.

Hydroxylated flavone found in celery, broccoli, and artichoke; among the more potent NF-κB inhibitors in common dietary flavonoids — at micromolar concentrations suppresses IKK activation blocking IL-6, IL-8, and MMP-1 expression; inhibits MAPK/ERK and PI3K/Akt inflammatory pathways; moderate tyrosinase inhibition; antioxidant activity partly mediated by iron chelation; low aqueous solubility limits topical delivery — nanoparticle and cyclodextrin encapsulation studied.

Acyclic carotenoid from tomatoes and red fruits; the most efficient singlet oxygen quencher among common carotenoids due to eleven conjugated double bonds enabling the longest electronic delocalization; accumulates in skin after dietary or topical delivery, particularly in sebaceous gland-rich areas; inhibits UV-induced MMP-1 and collagen cross-link degradation in ex vivo skin models; clinical trial evidence for topical lycopene is limited; included in antioxidant protective complexes targeting UV-associated oxidative load; naturally deep red, requiring stabilised formulation.

Signalling lipid involved in cell proliferation and wound repair. Used in premium serums for barrier recovery support.

Purified smectite clay used as a rheology modifier and suspension stabiliser; builds a thixotropic network in aqueous formulas that thins under shear and reforms at rest — widely used to keep mineral sunscreen particles in stable suspension.

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative stable in anhydrous and emulsion systems; moderate efficacy vs L-AA but gentler on sensitive skin.

Lightweight inorganic powder with high oil-absorption capacity; used in mattifying face powders, dry-texture gel-creams, and oil-control primers; the fluffy white texture also imparts a subtle brightening finish and reduces surface shine.

Mild alkaline mineral used as a pH adjuster and oil-absorbing agent. Also functions as a gentle deodorant active in natural deodorant formulas by creating an environment less hospitable to odour-causing bacteria.

Biphenyl neolignan from Magnolia officinalis bark; in-vitro inhibition of Cutibacterium acnes biofilm formation and modulation of inflammatory cytokines; positioned in pore-focused soothing formulations; pairs with honokiol entries.

C8 alpha-hydroxy acid from bitter almond; larger molecular weight than glycolic acid produces slower transdermal penetration, translating to a more gradual exfoliation onset favoured by reactive and rosacea-prone skin types; keratolytic and melanogenesis-suppressive; controlled evidence supports reduction of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma with lower erythema incidence than glycolic acid equivalents; moderate antibacterial activity useful in acne-related texture management.

Manganese-complexed PCA. Manganese is a cofactor for MnSOD, the mitochondrial antioxidant enzyme. Provides mineral delivery alongside NMF-type hydration.

Lightweight glycol ether that doubles as a penetration enhancer and humectant. Improves delivery of retinoids and vitamin C into the stratum corneum without irritation.

Sugar-derived emollient ester that provides a light, non-greasy moisturising effect. Glucose backbone contributes humectant character while the lauric chain offers mild emollient conditioning. Common in gentle baby-care and sensitive-skin formulas.

Citrus bioflavonoid derivative that modulates vascular permeability. Used in eye-contour products to reduce the appearance of dark circles.

Endogenous metabolite of niacinamide. Early research suggests anti-inflammatory and microcirculation-modulating properties.

Counterirritant and rubefacient; dermal vasodilation relieves muscle pain; toxic at high oral doses — cosmetics limited to low concentrations.

Sugar phosphate marketed as a cellular energy booster. Preliminary data suggests it may support dermal ATP production.

Organosilicon compound bound to mannuronic acid from alginate. Combines the hydrating properties of polysaccharides with bioavailable silicon for connective-tissue support.

Lactone form of mevalonic acid, the precursor to cholesterol synthesis in the mevalonate pathway. Topical application may accelerate barrier lipid replenishment after disruption.

Extract from the prized culinary morel mushroom; contains beta-glucans, ergosterol, and unique antioxidant polysaccharides; emerging use in skin conditioning and texture-refining formulations; limited published clinical data as a cosmetic active but established safety profile from long food use history.

Fungal-derived beta-1,3/1,6-D-glucan polysaccharide; distinct from oat beta-glucan already in catalogue; greater immunostimulatory potency through Dectin-1 receptor binding; clinical studies demonstrate barrier repair, hydration boost, and reduction in inflammatory markers; used in professional skincare for compromised and post-procedure skin.

Hexahydroxylated flavonol with high radical-scavenging capacity attributable to the trihydroxy B-ring pattern; copper-chelating tyrosinase inhibitor showing stronger enzyme inhibition than kojic acid in cell-free assays; anti-inflammatory via COX and LOX inhibition; antimicrobial properties relevant to acne-related inflammatory skin; high polyphenol hydroxylation confers pro-oxidant risk at elevated concentrations, which limits formulation use to typically below 1%.

Fatty acid (C14 myristic acid)-conjugated hexapeptide; lipidisation enhances membrane affinity and percutaneous penetration depth; improves organisation of lipid bilayers in the stratum corneum; used in advanced lash, scalp, and skin formulations where lipid membrane strengthening is the target outcome; the myristic acid moiety also provides emollient secondary benefits.

C14:0 ceramide NP-type with shorter acyl chain; the phytosphingosine backbone retains inherent antimicrobial activity effective against skin pathogens including C. acnes; used in barrier-care formulations targeting sensitive and eczema-prone skin where comprehensive ceramide spectrum replenishment is the goal.

Lipidated peptide proposed to act as a topical muscle-relaxant analogue; the myristoyl tail enables skin penetration and the tripeptide component is designed to interact with the neuromuscular junction signalling cascade, analogous to the mechanism of acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) but through a distinct molecular target; primary interest is reducing dynamic tension in expression-prone areas; limited independent clinical data — efficacy claims rely heavily on proprietary supplier studies.

Myristoylated (C14 fatty acid) form of tripeptide-5 that improves skin penetration through the stratum corneum lipid matrix; the lipid tail tethers the signal peptide within the lipid-rich intercellular space, increasing residence time near fibroblasts; targets collagen I and fibronectin synthesis pathways; formulation benefit over unmodified tripeptide-5 is better substantivity in rinse-off contexts.

Oil-soluble niacin derivative. Supports microcirculation at the skin surface, lending a temporary healthy-looking glow.

Southern African plant capable of surviving complete desiccation and reviving on rehydration; produces trehalose, arbutin, and unique osmoprotectants; aquaporin-activating properties; used in cosmetics for intense hydration and barrier strengthening under low-humidity conditions.

Bicyclic monoterpenoid from myrtle. Has mild antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, used in oil-control formulations.

Very-long-chain C20 ceramide NP-type; contributes to deep lamellar lipid bilayers in the stratum corneum alongside the predominant C24 ceramide pool; replenishes the longer-chain end of the physiological ceramide distribution which is depleted in dry and eczema-prone skin; phytosphingosine backbone confers additional anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity relative to sphingosine-based analogues.

Very-long-chain C24 ceramide NP variant; constitutes a significant portion of the native stratum corneum ceramide pool alongside C18 and C20 homologues; C24 acyl chains interdigitate across bilayer leaflets providing the tightest packing geometry and lowest water permeability; critical for waterproofing and protection against transepidermal water loss.

Plant callus culture from Narcissus tazetta; isoquinoline alkaloid analogues and galanthamine-related compounds from callus culture show AChE-modulating and brightening activity in early studies; callus form avoids the lycorine-rich toxicity of raw narcissus bulb extracts; applied in targeted brightening and anti-fatigue eye-area formulas.

Citrus flavanone aglycone; direct antioxidant via catechol ring electron donation; inhibits tyrosinase and DOPA oxidase activity in cell-free and melanocyte culture assays, suggesting melanogenesis-moderating potential; anti-inflammatory via AMPK activation and reduction of NF-κB nuclear translocation; topical evidence is limited to in vitro and early animal studies; often combined with other citrus flavonoids in antioxidant preparations targeting uneven skin tone and oxidative load.

Mono-unsaturated C24:1 ceramide NP variant; the cis-double bond in the nervonyl chain modifies lamellar packing geometry relative to the saturated C24 analogue, contributing fluidity to the bilayer at lower temperatures; found in minor amounts in stratum corneum lipid fraction; used in advanced ceramide complex formulations to broaden acyl-chain coverage.

Biomimetic peptide with a nicotinoyl moiety designed to activate retinol-like signalling pathways without retinoid irritation. Early data suggests collagen-supportive and brightening activity. A newer option for retinol-sensitive routines.

Alpha-MSH antagonist peptide. Reduces melanin production by blocking the hormonal signal that triggers pigmentation.

Melanin-inhibiting nonapeptide that targets the MC1R receptor on melanocytes. Supplier studies suggest reduced tyrosinase activation and melanin granule transfer.

Peptide fraction from Porphyra umbilicalis (nori/purple laver); INCI peptide form distinct from any nori or porphyra extract entries; porphyran-adjacent peptide complexes from enzymatic hydrolysis show barrier-supportive and mild anti-glycation activity; MAA-containing fractions provide natural UV-screening co-benefit; emerging K-beauty marine ingredient.

Phenol-derived antimicrobial widely used in Japanese and Korean skincare as a preservative booster and mild antiseptic. Effective at low concentrations with good skin tolerance.

Peptide fraction from Laminaria digitata (oarweed kelp); INCI peptide form distinct from laminaria extract entries; rich in laminine and alginic-acid-adjacent bioactive peptides that support skin water-binding and barrier glycoprotein synthesis; sustainably harvested from North Atlantic wild stocks; applied in intensive hydration and barrier repair serums.

Eight amino acid peptide that mimics the C-terminal domain of type I collagen propeptide to signal collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts; the KGS and KPG motifs interact with SPARC (secreted protein, acidic, and rich in cysteine) and matrix metalloproteinase binding sites on the fibroblast surface; in vitro data suggests upregulation of collagen types I, III, and IV at 1–5 ppm; most effective in combination with antioxidants such as vitamin C or ferulic acid that protect newly synthesised collagen from oxidative degradation.

Galactose- and rhamnose-rich mucilage from Abelmoschus esculentus pods; film-forming with notable affinity for stratum-corneum proteins; positioned in plant-derived hydration systems as a complement to hyaluronic-acid backbones.

Mono-unsaturated C18:1 ceramide NP-type variant; the cis-oleoyl chain imparts greater fluidity to lipid bilayers than the saturated C18 stearoyl analogue; minor component of the native stratum corneum ceramide profile; incorporated into broad-spectrum ceramide complex formulations to provide unsaturated-chain coverage alongside the more abundant saturated ceramides.

Short synthetic peptide that mimics the receptor-binding domain of epidermal growth factor (EGF); signals through the EGF receptor (EGFR) on keratinocytes and fibroblasts to stimulate proliferation and collagen synthesis; as a small peptide rather than the intact glycoprotein, stability in acidic and neutral formulations is significantly improved; often combined with other growth factor analogues such as sh-oligopeptide-1 for a broader matrix renewal signal.

EGF-analogue short-chain peptide; stimulates proliferation of keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts; promotes synthesis of collagen I, collagen III, and fibronectin; supports epidermal renewal and barrier repair; used in regenerative and post-procedure skincare formulations; often combined with sh-polypeptide-1 and growth factor blends.

Plant callus culture from Olea europaea; distinct from olive fruit oil or olive leaf extract entries; callus biotechnology yields stable oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol analogs without the colour or odour of traditional olive derivatives; barrier and moisturisation focus; lower ecological footprint than fruit-derived olive actives.

Cactus stem extract rich in mucilage polysaccharides, primarily mucilage-type β-glucans and pectins with high water-binding capacity; adapted to arid environments, the plant's mucopolysaccharides demonstrate exceptional hygroscopic behaviour under low-humidity conditions where standard humectants underperform; also contains betalains (betaxanthins and betacyanins) with antioxidant properties; a published clinical study using a formulation with opuntia extract showed statistically significant improvements in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss versus vehicle after 4 weeks of use.

O-methylated flavone from Oroxylum indicum (Indian trumpet tree) root bark; potent NF-κB inhibitor and antioxidant; antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus; GABA(A) receptor positive modulator; emerging ingredient in anti-inflammatory and anti-acne formulations; distinct methylation pattern from wogonin (5,7-dihydroxy-8-methoxy vs 5,7-dihydroxy-6-methoxy).

Endogenous lipid amino acid found in sebum. May help normalise sebocyte behaviour and pore appearance. Mild antimicrobial activity.

Lipopeptide designed to mimic elastin fragments. In-vitro data suggests stimulation of tropoelastin synthesis. Clinical data is still accumulating.

C16:0 ceramide NP-type shorter than predominant skin ceramides; barrier-supportive and anti-inflammatory via TLR-modulation inherent to phytosphingosine backbone; found in cosmetic ceramide complex formulations targeting broad-spectrum stratum corneum lipid replenishment across the C14–C24 acyl chain distribution.

N-terminally palmitoylated serine amino acid; lipid-amino acid conjugate that intercalates into the stratum corneum lipid lamellae, contributing to barrier repair in a manner analogous to ceramide precursors; the palmitoyl (C16) chain mirrors the predominant fatty acid species in human skin ceramides, enabling structural integration; studied in combination with phytosphingosine for barrier-deficient skin conditions; well tolerated and stable in anhydrous and low-water formulations.

Acetate salt form of GHK-palmitoyl; improved pH stability vs free-base form; collagen I and III stimulation in fibroblast culture.

Melanin-modulating lipopeptide that targets melanocyte-keratinocyte signalling. Supplier studies show reduced melanin transfer in co-culture models.

Newer-generation collagen-boosting lipopeptide. Preliminary supplier data shows fibroblast stimulation comparable to palmitoyl tripeptide-1 at lower concentrations.

Natural UV-absorbing mycosporine-like amino acid (MAA) found in marine organisms (corals, cyanobacteria, algae); absorbs UV-A/B with high molar extinction coefficient; produced biotechnologically for cosmetic use; emerging natural alternative to synthetic UV filters with additional antioxidant activity.

Flower extract standardised for spilanthol N-alkylamides; in-vivo studies show mild and transient relaxation of expression-line micromusculature with measurable smoothing of dynamic surface texture; distinct from whole-plant Acmella extract entries.

Silicone modified with PCA to add humectant character. Provides silicone-smooth feel while contributing mild moisture binding.

Plant-derived peptide fraction from garden pea seeds. In vitro studies suggest support for extracellular matrix proteins. Used in vegan anti-ageing formulations as an alternative to animal-derived growth factors.

Fermented soybean extract using Pediococcus species; fermentation converts isoflavone glycosides (genistin, daidzin) to bioactive aglycones (genistein, daidzein) with significantly enhanced skin penetration and bioavailability; genistein exerts estrogen-like effects that stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis in dermal fibroblasts; postbiotic fraction adds barrier-protective and anti-inflammatory properties; used in anti-aging, skin-firming and sensitive-skin formulations.

Glucose-derived non-ionic thickener for surfactant systems. Builds viscosity in cleansers, shower gels, and micellar waters without affecting foam quality or contributing greasiness.

High-performance W/O emulsifier used in mineral sunscreens and heavy-duty moisturisers. Produces stable, skin-friendly emulsions.

Brown seaweed extract rich in polysaccharides. Used in retinol-alternative positioning for its gentle surface-smoothing properties.

Branched ester emollient with a silky, dry-touch feel. Commonly replaces silicones in natural-positioning formulas.

Commercially Leuphasyl (Lipotrue/Arch Chemicals); analog of leucine-enkephalin; competitively binds mu-opioid receptors on muscle cells to modulate neurotransmitter release and reduce muscle contraction intensity; softens expression lines by a different mechanism from acetylcholine-blocking peptides like argireline; combination with argireline at 5% each reported to enhance efficacy; suited to forehead and perioral areas.

Anti-inflammatory pentapeptide that modulates pro-inflammatory cytokine release. Supplier data shows reduced redness markers in vitro.

Lipid-like molecule that self-assembles into liquid-crystal structures on skin. Supports barrier repair by mimicking intercellular lipid organisation.

Inositol hexaphosphate from plant seed storage; multidentate metal chelator binding iron, copper, and zinc ions that catalyse reactive oxygen species generation in skin; chelation limits tyrosinase activity by competing with copper at the enzyme active site; mild exfoliant activity at low pH; used in antioxidant and tyrosinase-targeting formulations addressing post-inflammatory pigmentation; good tolerance profile and broad formulation compatibility.

Polymethylene-interrupted polyunsaturated fatty acid from Pinus koraiensis; anti-inflammatory via LOX pathway inhibition in vitro.

Non-ionic emulsifier with gentle cleansing properties. Derived from plant glycerol and caprylic acid. Well-tolerated by compromised barriers and common in micellar formulations.

Mild W/O emulsifier derived from castor oil. Produces rich, protective creams. Often chosen for sensitive-skin sunscreens.

Non-ionic emulsifier for water-in-oil systems. Stabilises sunscreen and foundation emulsions without heavy skin feel.

Tropical fern extract from Central/South America; strong antioxidant and photoprotective activity; multiple clinical studies show reduction in UV-induced erythema, DNA damage, and photoinduced pigmentation; used both topically and orally (Fernblock/Heliocare brand); one of the most evidence-backed botanical photoprotective agents.

Film-forming silicone resin that provides long-wear properties in sunscreens and primers. Creates a flexible, water-resistant film on the skin surface that improves UV filter adherence without a heavy or sticky finish.

Unsaponifiable sterol fraction from pomegranate seed oil; concentrates beta-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol with mild ceramide-synthesis-supportive activity in keratinocyte models; distinct from punicic-acid-rich seed oil entries.

Sclerotium extract from Poria cocos (fu ling); INCI sclerotium form distinct from general poria extract entries; pachymic acid and beta-(1→3)-glucans from sclerotium provide well-documented hydration and calming activity; traditional Chinese medicine ingredient with growing in-vitro validation; positioned in moisture-barrier and calming formulas.

Water-soluble potassium salt formed by amidation of azelaic acid with two glycine molecules; water-soluble and pH-neutral at cosmetic concentrations, enabling formulation at lower acidity than raw azelaic acid; shares the tyrosinase-inhibiting and anti-inflammatory mechanism of the parent azelaic acid via mitochondrial electron transport and 5-alpha-reductase inhibition; better tolerated on sensitive skin where azelaic acid at 15–20% may cause stinging.

Anionic phospholipid-type emulsifier that creates stable oil-in-water emulsions at skin-compatible pH. Produces light, non-greasy textures and is well-suited to sensitive-skin formulas because of its structural similarity to natural skin lipids.

Non-ionic solubiliser and co-emulsifier frequently paired with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Helps incorporate fragrance, essential oils, and oil-soluble actives into water-based formulas without cloudiness.

Trimeric proanthocyanidin from grape seed; senolytic activity in mouse models; collagen cross-link stabilisation in vitro.

Dipeptide derived from enzymatic hydrolysis of collagen, abundant in hydrolyzed collagen ingredients; demonstrates in vitro fibroblast activation at nanomolar concentrations, stimulating hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS2) expression and type I collagen production; small size (MW ~212 Da) allows transdermal absorption versus larger collagen peptides; found naturally in bone broth and fermented dairy; surface-applied human studies show measurable improvements in skin hydration and elasticity at 0.1–1% concentration.

Wood-sugar derivative that stimulates glycosaminoglycan (GAG) synthesis in dermal fibroblasts. Supports the water-holding capacity of the extracellular matrix.

Ferment filtrate from Antarctic deep-sea bacteria; the organism produces exopolysaccharides that enable survival in extreme cold and hypersalinity; topically these polysaccharides act as film-forming humectants with potential thermal-protective barrier activity.

Dimethylated analogue of resveratrol from blueberries and red grapes; dimethylation substantially increases lipophilicity, improving cell membrane permeability and metabolic stability compared with resveratrol; SIRT1 activator, NF-κB and AP-1 inhibitor; stronger tyrosinase inhibition than resveratrol in cell-free assays; greater oxidative stability in formulation than trans-resveratrol; used as a more bioavailable resveratrol alternative in antioxidant serums; topical clinical data is limited but increasing.

Polyhydroxylated flavonol found in many vegetables and fruits; inhibits COX-1, COX-2, and 5-lipoxygenase reducing eicosanoid-mediated skin inflammation; suppresses NF-κB signalling and downstream IL-1β and TNF-α in keratinocytes; moderate tyrosinase inhibition; potent iron-chelating antioxidant; quercetin bioavailability in topical delivery is limited by lipophilicity — nanoparticle and phospholipid complex encapsulations studied to enhance penetration; synergistic anti-inflammatory effect with niacinamide reported.

Plant-derived trisaccharide with water-binding capacity. Acts as a gentle humectant and may support the skin microbiome environment.

Stilbenoid phytoalexin from grape skin, Japanese knotweed, and peanuts; activates SIRT1 deacetylase regulating NF-κB at K310 deacetylation and extending keratinocyte replicative lifespan; inhibits COX-1/2 and reduces PGE2; inhibits tyrosinase and MITF-mediated melanogenesis; moderate topical evidence for collagen expression upregulation; formulation instability (rapid oxidation) requires antioxidant stabilisers and opaque or airless packaging; typically combined with vitamin C, ferulic acid, or phloretin in anti-ageing serums.

Retinol esterified with propionic acid; requires sequential ester hydrolysis and oxidation to convert to retinoic acid, yielding a slower and gentler retinoid activity compared with free retinol; lower irritation profile makes it accessible for retinoid-sensitive skin; used in entry-level retinoid formulations targeting texture and early elasticity management without the erythema associated with retinol at equivalent concentrations.

Hybrid ester bonding retinol and retinoic acid in a single molecule; developed and primarily studied in Korean cosmetic research; hydrolysis yields both retinol and retinoic acid in the skin, providing direct receptor-level activity alongside the slower retinol conversion pathway; clinical data shows collagen-related gene expression improvements with a lower erythema and peeling profile than equivalent concentrations of pure retinol.

Recombinant epidermal growth factor. Studies suggest it may support surface renewal. Long-term safety data at cosmetic concentrations is limited.

Ferment derived from Rhodotorula sp. (red yeast); rich in torularhodin and beta-carotene carotenoids with well-documented antioxidant and photoprotection-supportive activity; INCI ferment form distinct from any carotenoid extract entries; cold-process fermentation yields stable actives; used in antioxidant-defence and barrier-support serums.

Plant callus culture from Pelargonium graveolens; geraniol and citronellol precursor fractions from callus concentrate antimicrobial and sebum-balancing properties without the sensitisation risk of the essential oil; distinct INCI form from geranium essential oil entries; applied in pore-minimising and redness-calming formulas.

Callus culture from Rosa canina; INCI-specific form not covered by existing rosehip seed oil or rosehip extract entries; cell culture retains polyphenol and vitamin C precursor content without the oxidation risk of cold-pressed oils; calming and barrier-supportive application profile.

Extract from Atlantic sugar kelp; rich in fucoidan, alginate, and mannitol; provides humectant hydration and supports the skin barrier; distinct from the Laminaria digitata and kombu entries already in catalogue.

Peruvian seed oil rich in alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3). Lightweight with a high essential fatty acid ratio for barrier support.

Monomethylated naringenin flavanone (7-O-methyl group) from Prunus jamasakura (Japanese mountain cherry) and various grasses; modulates UVB-induced inflammatory signalling including prostaglandin E2 and histamine pathways; inhibits mast cell degranulation; anti-inflammatory phytoalexin naturally produced by plants in stress response; contributes to the calming and UV-modulating properties associated with cherry blossom skincare actives.

Pressed lipid fraction from Schisandra chinensis fruit; supplies linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids alongside schisandrin lignans for combined emollient and antioxidant behaviour; distinct INCI from the catalogued schisandra fruit extract.

Coumarin derivative from noni and passion flower; tyrosinase inhibition and COX-2 modulation reported in vitro.

C-glucuronide flavonoid from Scutellaria baicalensis (Chinese skullcap); distinct from baicalin (7-glucuronide position vs 6-glucuronide for baicalin); potent NF-κB inhibitor and COX-2 suppressor with stronger anti-inflammatory profile than baicalin in some assays; improves microcirculation and capillary wall integrity; antioxidant, neuroprotective, and anti-inflammatory; used in redness-reduction and sensitive-skin serums alongside other Scutellaria-derived actives.

Intensely orange-coloured oil from sea buckthorn berry pulp; exceptionally rich in palmitoleic acid (omega-7), beta-carotene, and tocopherols; palmitoleic acid mirrors sebum composition and supports barrier repair; requires dilution due to strong pigmentation.

Plant callus culture form of Crithmum maritimum; concentrates the chlorogenic-acid and flavonoid fractions of sea fennel while bypassing coastal-source variability; complements the whole-plant Crithmum extract with a biotech-source INCI.

Coastal halophyte extract rich in chlorogenic acid, flavonoid glycosides, and vitamin C; in-vitro data suggest mild retinoid-like activity through epidermal differentiation markers without retinoid irritancy; positioned in smoothing and resilience formulas; distinct from broader sea-fennel callus culture entries.

Postbiotic active produced by fermenting kelp (typically Laminaria species) with specific microbial cultures; fermentation cleaves polysaccharides into smaller bioavailable fragments, generates short-chain fatty acids and amino acids with prebiotic-like effects on the skin microbiome, and concentrates mineral content including iodine, magnesium, and zinc; the fermentation process also reduces the heavy metal burden sometimes associated with raw seaweed extracts; proposed benefits include enhanced skin barrier function and a modulating effect on commensal microorganism populations.

C10 dicarboxylic acid; structural analogue of azelaic acid with longer chain; mild comedolytic and antimicrobial claims in vitro.

Fibrous magnesium silicate clay with a very high surface area and exceptional oil and odour absorption; used in dry-touch and mineralised face powders for long-lasting mattifying with a characteristic velvet skin feel.

Synthetic peptide modelled on the EGFR-binding domain of epidermal growth factor; signals through EGF receptor to activate downstream RAS/ERK and PI3K/AKT pathways, promoting keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblast activity; as a defined sequence rather than the intact glycoprotein EGF, it is free from batch variation and biosynthetic contamination risk; often present in growth factor cocktail serums alongside sh-oligopeptide-1 and sh-polypeptide-1; supplier studies show fibroblast stimulation in vitro at concentrations above 1 ppb.

Synthetic peptide analogue based on the FGFR1-binding domain of basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF/FGF-2); bFGF is one of the key drivers of fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis in the dermis; the small synthetic peptide format enables stable formulation at low pH (unlike the glycoprotein) and avoids the theoretical mitogenic safety concerns associated with full-length growth factors applied to intact skin; typically used at trace concentrations (1–100 ppb) in multi-peptide growth factor serums.

Synthetic octapeptide that mimics the receptor-binding region of keratinocyte growth factor (KGF/FGF-7); activates FGFR2b on keratinocytes and sebocytes; KGF signalling supports barrier function, accelerates wound healing, and stimulates epidermal renewal; as a small stable synthetic analogue it overcomes the formulation and regulatory challenges of using intact recombinant KGF protein; used in advanced anti-ageing and barrier recovery serums.

Liquid fraction separated from shea butter by dry fractionation; retains the unsaponifiable-rich profile of whole shea but flows at room temperature; the lighter skin feel suits formulas where solid shea would create excessive heaviness.

Solid hard fraction of shea butter obtained by fractionation; elevated stearic-acid content creates a denser, waxier texture than whole shea; used as a structuring and occlusive agent in balms, lip sticks, and ultra-rich overnight creams.

Callus culture from Scutellaria baicalensis; baicalin and baicalein fractions from callus culture are among the best-validated plant anti-inflammatories for topical use; INCI callus form distinct from any scutellaria root extract entries; strong in-vitro data for mast-cell stabilisation and IL-4/IL-13 modulation; reactive and redness-prone skin.

Cold-stress-cultured green algae extract studied for upregulation of klotho and AMPK pathways in keratinocyte models; positioned in longevity-marketed formulas as supporting cellular stress response; evidence remains primarily in-vitro.

Extremophile algae (Cryosphera antarctica) that thrives in UV-intense sub-zero alpine environments; activates SIRT1 cell longevity pathway and upregulates Klotho protein; preliminary clinical studies show improvements in skin firmness and barrier function; ingredient championed by Mibelle Biochemistry.

Tremella fuciformis fruiting-body extract standardised for branched glucuronoxylomannan; smaller polysaccharide particle size than hyaluronic acid supports surface and superficial-layer hydration; cosmetic-marketing variant distinct from sporocarp/polysaccharide INCI fractions already catalogued.

Pre-neutralised polymeric thickener and stabiliser that builds light gel textures without requiring a separate neutraliser. Commonly found in lightweight moisturisers and sunscreens where a non-tacky, quick-absorbing finish is desired.

Salmon-derived polynucleotide used in Korean dermatology for hydration and tissue repair. Draws moisture and may support collagen synthesis.

Ultra-gentle anionic surfactant derived from isethionic acid. Produces dense foam with minimal lipid stripping. A staple in syndet (soap-free) bars and sensitive-skin cleansers.

Mild acyl taurate surfactant with excellent foaming and low irritation potential. Preserves barrier lipids better than sulphate-based surfactants. Common in premium gentle cleansers.

Sodium salt of olive fatty acid conjugated with glutamic acid; mild acyl-amino acid surfactant at physiological pH (~6); causes minimal disruption to stratum corneum lipid bilayers compared with sulfate surfactants; suited to sensitive-skin cleansers and barrier-care wash-off formulas.

Alternate INCI name for sodium PCA, a natural moisturising factor component. Highly hygroscopic and well tolerated on sensitive skin.

Sodium salt of salicylic acid. Milder than free salicylic acid. Provides gentle anti-inflammatory and keratolytic support without the low-pH requirement of the acid form.

Microbial lipopeptide biosurfactant with antimicrobial and mild cleansing activity. Biodegradable alternative to synthetic preservative boosters.

Non-saponifiable fraction of soybean oil; concentrated in phytosterols including sitosterol, stigmasterol, and campesterol alongside isoflavone-associated lipids; supports barrier function and is used in premium anti-ageing formulas targeting firmness.

Sphingolipid precursor to ceramides. Supports the natural ceramide synthesis pathway and strengthens the lipid barrier.

Alkylamide from Acmella oleracea; transient muscle-relaxant effect reduces dynamic lines without systemic action.

Peptide fraction from Arthrospira platensis (spirulina); INCI peptide form distinct from spirulina extract, powder, or biomass entries; enzymatic hydrolysis produces phycocyanin-derived peptides with antioxidant and collagen-stimulating activity; high phycocyanin content provides visible antioxidant profile; used in anti-aging barrier formulas.

Callus culture from Hypericum perforatum; callus biotechnology excludes hypericin (phototoxin) while concentrating hyperforin and xanthones with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing activity; INCI callus form distinct from hypericum extract entries; evening use only as precaution; applied in barrier repair and post-irritation recovery formulas.

Ferment from the dominant commensal skin bacterium; produces antimicrobial peptides (esp. epidermin), supports healthy skin microbiome balance; postbiotic approach to reinforcing the microbiome without introducing live bacteria.

Lipophilic ester of 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid (from licorice root); superior skin penetration versus water-soluble dipotassium glycyrrhizinate; anti-inflammatory activity via inhibition of 11-beta-HSD and prostaglandin pathway; preferred form for oil-phase anti-redness formulations targeting sensitive and rosacea-prone skin.

Bacterial polysaccharide that forms a moisture-retaining film. Provides humectant and light thickening benefits without tackiness.

Telopeptide-removed collagen with succinyl groups for water solubility; forms film retaining moisture; low immunogenicity.

Polymethoxylated flavone (3'-hydroxy-4',7-dimethoxyflavone isomer) from Citrus sudachi rind (Japanese sudachi citrus); stimulates adiponectin gene expression in adipocytes with downstream skin brightening and anti-inflammatory effects; inhibits melanogenesis; emerging cosmetic ingredient from Japanese functional food and cosmeceutical research; data primarily from cell-based assays and animal models, limited clinical skin trials to date.

Bio-fermented sunflower seed extract; fermentation converts linoleic-rich triglycerides into more bioavailable free fatty acid fragments and generates postbiotic metabolites with anti-inflammatory and skin-microbiome-supportive properties.

Plant-derived wax from sunflower seeds used as a vegan alternative to beeswax. Provides structure and occlusion in lip balms, salves, and stick formulas. Melting point suited to body-heat-activated products.

Ayurvedic extract containing rotenoids and flavonoids including tephrosin; shows tyrosinase-inhibitory and anti-inflammatory activity in vitro; used in brightening formulas targeting uneven skin tone, typically paired with broad-spectrum sun care.

Isoprenoid compound studied for telomere-length maintenance in cell models. Marketed as a longevity-signalling active.

Principal reduced metabolite of curcumin formed by hydrogenation of the double bonds; white powder with no yellow pigmentation, unlike parent curcumin; potent antioxidant (4× DPPH radical scavenging vs curcumin); inhibits tyrosinase and DOPA oxidase more effectively than kojic acid in some in vitro assays; anti-inflammatory via NF-κB suppression; superior photostability for AM use; emerging brightening ingredient in premium serum and moisturiser formulations.

Synthetic tetrapeptide designed to stimulate epidermal renewal by activating syndecan receptors on keratinocytes; in vitro work suggests upregulation of integrin α6β4, laminin-5, and collagen XVII supporting basement membrane integrity; proposed mechanism involves acceleration of the skin cell turnover cycle; combines well with peptides targeting dermal collagen synthesis for a full-depth approach to texture refinement.

Ferment from a heat-resistant bacterium. Thought to support antioxidant defences. Evidence is preliminary but promising for sensitive skin.

Ferment lysate from a hot-spring extremophile bacterium. Contains heat-shock proteins and exopolysaccharides that may support the skin stress response.

Callus culture from Thymus vulgaris; callus biotechnology isolates rosmarinic acid and luteolin fractions without the thymol/carvacrol sensitisation risk of the essential oil; antimicrobial and sebum-modulatory activity supports pore and texture applications; distinct INCI form from thyme extract or thyme oil entries.

Plant callus culture from Solanum lycopersicum; lycopene precursors and carotenoid-pathway metabolites from callus culture support photoprotection and mild brightening; callus form avoids the red pigment and odour of tomato extracts; INCI callus form distinct from tomato fruit extract; used in daytime antioxidant defence formulas.

Plant callus culture from Populus tremuloides (quaking aspen); salicin and populin analogues from callus culture deliver mild keratolytic and soothing effects; distinct from any willow bark or meadowsweet entries; natural salicylate-adjacent activity without the pH constraints of salicylic acid; used in texture-refinement and calming serums.

Triglyceride ester of behenic acid (C22 fatty acid); solid-state plant-derived emollient wax; provides rich skin feel and occlusive barrier protection without greasiness; structurally similar to skin barrier lipids (C22:0 is a ceramide building block); widely used in balms, stick formulations, and rich creams.

Polyhydroxylated flavone (three additional hydroxyl groups vs base flavone) found in cereal pollen, tea, and various plants; strong DPPH and ABTS antioxidant activity; inhibits 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) and superoxide anion generation; mild photoprotective co-benefits via UV absorption; metal chelation capacity may synergise with EDTA-free formulations; the wide plant distribution suggests good tolerability and long history of dietary/topical exposure.

Non-ionic emulsifier that improves delivery of actives through the stratum corneum. Common in prescription-strength topical vehicles.

Fourth-generation RAR-gamma-selective retinoid used in acne treatment; lower irritation than tretinoin due to receptor selectivity.

Medium-chain triglyceride emollient with excellent spreadability. Penetrates quickly and leaves a non-greasy, velvety finish.

Medium-chain saturated triglyceride derived from lauric acid. Lighter than tripalmitin with faster absorption. Used in lightweight emulsions and as a carrier for oil-soluble actives.

Saturated triglyceride of palmitic acid. Used as a structuring agent and occlusive co-emollient in rich creams and balms. Provides a non-greasy waxy barrier that slows transepidermal water loss.

Commercially Decorinyl (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics); stimulates decorin production in dermal fibroblasts; decorin is a small leucine-rich proteoglycan that acts as a collagen fibril diameter regulator and spacer, controlling inter-fibril distance and mechanical integrity; addresses age-related collagen disorganisation (loss of fibrillar regularity) rather than just collagen quantity; best combined with collagen-stimulating peptides for synergistic ECM quality improvement.

Commercially Syn-Firm (Sederma); stimulates neosynthesis of collagen I, collagen III, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid, and decorin in dermal fibroblasts; five-pathway simultaneous induction distinguishes it from single-target signal peptides; clinical data shows measurable firmness improvement in 28-day double-blind studies; pairs well with retinoids and vitamin C for matrix-building protocols.

Signal peptide that mimics the natural thrombospondin-1 activation of TGF-β1, stimulating collagen I synthesis in fibroblasts; clinically studied under the name Syn-Coll at 2% concentration showing statistically significant reductions in measured skin roughness versus vehicle; water-soluble and stable across typical serum and moisturiser pH ranges; well tolerated in human repeat insult patch testing.

Signal tripeptide that modulates TGF-beta pathway activity in dermal fibroblasts; regulates collagen remodelling balance and ECM homeostasis; secondary anti-inflammatory effects support its use in sensitive or compromised skin formulations; used alongside other matrix peptides in comprehensive anti-aging protocols.

Biodegradable chelating agent that replaces EDTA in eco-conscious formulas. Binds metal ions to extend product shelf life.

Organic amine used as a pH adjuster and buffering agent in aqueous formulas. Maintains product stability without the strong alkalinity of sodium hydroxide. Common in gentle, low-irritation formulations.

Seven-membered ring compound found in hinoki cypress. Shows antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity in lab studies. Used sparingly in formulation as a preservation booster.

Filtrate from aerobic bacterium Vitreoscilla sp.; rich in nitric oxide-modulating enzymes and microbiome-mimetic peptides; distinct from the extract form already in catalogue; supports barrier function and calms reactive skin through microbiome-modulating mechanisms.

Bioactive peptide fraction from Undaria pinnatifida (wakame seaweed); INCI peptide form distinct from undaria extract or powder entries; enzymatic hydrolysis yields pentapeptides and hexapeptides with matrix-metalloproteinase-inhibiting and pro-collagen activity; well-validated in K-beauty and Japanese marine cosmetics; elasticity and barrier repair profile.

Plant callus culture from Morus alba; oxyresveratrol and mulberroside F from callus culture deliver well-validated tyrosinase inhibition and melanin-transfer blockade; callus form more stable and standardisable than root bark or leaf extracts; INCI callus form distinct from mulberry extract entries; widely used in brightening formulas.

Extract from Wolfiporia extensa (formerly Poria extensa); distinct species from Poria cocos; high-molecular-weight beta-glucan polysaccharides support skin water-binding and barrier function; used in premium East Asian skincare as a high-end alternative to standard poria; confirm species designation on CoA as naming conventions vary regionally.

Callus culture from Artemisia absinthium; INCI callus form avoids the thujone content of raw wormwood while retaining artabsin sesquiterpenes and absinthin with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity; distinct from artemisia annua or vulgaris entries; emerging use in barrier-defence and microbiome-supportive formulas.

Cold-pressed oil from the Cape chestnut tree of East and Southern Africa; balanced linoleic and oleic acid profile with a lightweight, quick-absorbing feel similar to argan oil; traditionally used in coastal Swahili skin and hair care.

Branched 1,3/1,6 beta-glucan from Saccharomyces cerevisiae cell wall; immunomodulatory and film-forming behaviour distinct from linear oat beta-glucan; supports topical hydration and stratum-corneum recovery in irritation-prone routines.

Callus-analogous cell culture from Saccharomyces cerevisiae; distinct INCI form from saccharomyces lysate ferment or yeast extract entries; provides beta-glucan-like polysaccharides and ergosterol precursors in a stable concentrated form; barrier reinforcement and mild exfoliating enzymatic activity; used in professional-grade texture-refinement formulas.