[
  {
    "id": "liquiritin",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Liquiritin",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "One small four-week split-face controlled trial in 20 women with epidermal melasma reported improvement with 1% liquiritin cream versus vehicle.",
    "caveat": "This is one small, short study. The PubMed record does not state randomization or blinding, and the study included no hydroquinone or kojic-acid comparator, so it cannot establish comparative tolerability.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10809983/",
        "journal": "Int J Dermatol",
        "year": 2000,
        "n": 20,
        "design": "Split-face controlled trial",
        "duration": "4 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "1%"
        ],
        "outcome": "epidermal melasma pigmentation",
        "finding": "Twenty women with bilateral epidermal melasma used liquiritin cream on one side of the face and vehicle on the other twice daily for four weeks. The report describes improvement with 1% liquiritin, but the PubMed abstract does not state randomization or blinding and names no active comparator.",
        "formulation": "1% liquiritin cream"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "retinoids",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Retinoids (class)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Topical retinoids as a class are among the most studied ingredients for skin texture over time.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11472206/",
        "journal": "Cureus",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "acne",
        "finding": "The review names retinoids, antibiotics and benzoyl peroxide as the main treatment options for acne, and states that a retinoid with benzoyl peroxide is safe and effective without contributing to antibiotic resistance. (Its own trial data is eight adapalene/benzoyl-peroxide trials and is adapalene/BPO specific.)",
        "formulation": "adapalene with benzoyl peroxide"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "retinol",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Retinol (over the counter)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "Studied in relation to fine lines and surface texture, with results that vary a lot between trials.",
    "caveat": "Retinol is not the same molecule as prescription tretinoin and the evidence is not the same either. Trials are small, formulations differ, and an over the counter product is not required to state how much retinol it contains.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34980969/",
        "journal": "J Clin Aesthet Dermatol",
        "year": 2021,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Systematic review of nine randomized trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "fine facial wrinkles",
        "finding": "Systematic review of nine randomised trials: four found no significant difference between retinol and vehicle. The five that did gave weak evidence for a mild effect on fine wrinkle lines only, with major methodological flaws.",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/",
        "journal": "Arch Dermatol",
        "year": 2007,
        "n": 36,
        "design": "Vehicle-controlled trial",
        "duration": "24 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "0.4%"
        ],
        "outcome": "fine wrinkles, skin matrix synthesis",
        "finding": "Vehicle-controlled trial of 0.4% retinol in ARM skin, 24 weeks, in 36 residents of two senior citizen facilities, mean age 87: fine wrinkle scores improved against vehicle (-1.64 vs -0.08, P<.001), with higher glycosaminoglycan and procollagen I expression.",
        "formulation": "0.4% retinol lotion"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "trifarotene",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Trifarotene (prescription topical)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Two 12-week randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled phase 3 trials found greater facial and truncal acne improvement with trifarotene 0.005% cream than vehicle.",
    "caveat": "Trifarotene is a prescription retinoid. Local irritation and ultraviolet-exposure precautions apply. The trial author list included employees of Galderma R&D, the manufacturer's research organization; neither held source compares trifarotene with another retinoid or establishes adjunctive-treatment benefit.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30802558/",
        "journal": "J Am Acad Dermatol",
        "year": 2019,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled phase 3 trials",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "0.005%"
        ],
        "outcome": "facial acne vulgaris, truncal acne vulgaris",
        "finding": "Two separate 12-week randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled phase 3 trials in patients aged 9 years or older found trifarotene 0.005% cream superior to vehicle on investigator success and inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesion counts on the face and trunk. The author list included employees of Galderma R&D.",
        "formulation": "0.005% trifarotene cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailymed/lookup.cfm?setid=62d910db-85a6-4696-b69b-4bd2f3080cfc",
        "journal": "DailyMed prescribing information",
        "year": 2023,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "0.005%"
        ],
        "outcome": "U.S. prescribing indication for acne, skin irritation safety, ultraviolet-exposure precautions",
        "finding": "The current U.S. prescribing information, revised October 2023, indicates topical 0.005% trifarotene cream for acne vulgaris on the face and/or trunk in patients aged 9 years and older, and warns about local irritation and ultraviolet exposure. It does not establish superiority or lower irritation versus another retinoid.",
        "formulation": "0.005% trifarotene cream"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "tretinoin",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Tretinoin",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Well studied in relation to fine lines, mottled pigmentation and surface texture over months of use.",
    "caveat": "Tretinoin is a prescription medicine in most countries, and irritation early on is the usual reason people stop. Someone who can see your skin should hold the plan.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9112391/",
        "journal": "Int J Womens Dermatol",
        "year": 2022,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Review of seven randomized controlled trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "photoaging, wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, sallowness, lentigines",
        "finding": "Seven randomised controlled trials: all reported topical tretinoin improving the clinical appearance of photoaging (wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, sallowness and lentigines) as early as 1 month, and still present after 24 months.",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41236273/",
        "journal": "Dermatol Pract Concept",
        "year": 2025,
        "n": 1361,
        "design": "Meta-analysis of eight trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "fine wrinkles, coarse wrinkles",
        "finding": "Meta-analysis of eight trials and 1,361 patients: topical tretinoin significantly improved both fine and coarse facial wrinkles from photodamage.",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38300170/",
        "journal": "J Am Acad Dermatol",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Clinical guideline",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "acne vulgaris",
        "finding": "AAD acne guideline: strong recommendations for topical retinoids alongside benzoyl peroxide, topical antibiotics and oral doxycycline. Acne, not photoaging.",
        "formulation": null
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "adapalene",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Adapalene",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Well studied in relation to clearer skin, most often alongside benzoyl peroxide.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11472206/",
        "journal": "Cureus",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": 4596,
        "design": "Systematic review of eight randomized controlled trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "27.5% to 70.2%",
          "2.7% to 57.9%"
        ],
        "outcome": "acne",
        "finding": "Systematic review of 8 randomised controlled trials, 4,596 participants, compared against vehicle or single-agent treatment: acne lesion reduction ranged from 27.5% to 70.2%, and the review concludes the combination is safe and effective. Adverse effects ranged from 2.7% to 57.9% and were mild.",
        "formulation": "adapalene with benzoyl peroxide"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "vitamin-c",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Vitamin C (topical)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "Studied in relation to brighter, more even-looking skin and collagen support over time. Formulation and freshness matter.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11896774/",
        "journal": "Dermatologic Surgery",
        "year": 2002,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Double-blind half-face trial",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "photoaging score",
        "finding": "Double-blind half-face trial: vitamin C side showed significant photoaging-score improvement at 12 weeks (cheeks P=0.006).",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16029672/",
        "journal": "Dermatologic Surgery",
        "year": 2005,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "collagen synthesis, photoprotection, pigmentation",
        "finding": "Review: support for topical vitamin C in collagen synthesis, photoprotection (adjunct, not a sunscreen) and pigmentation.",
        "formulation": null
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "niacinamide",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Niacinamide",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Well studied in relation to a calmer, more even-looking complexion and a supported skin barrier.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16029679/",
        "journal": "Dermatologic Surgery",
        "year": 2005,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Double-blind split-face trial",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "5%"
        ],
        "outcome": "fine lines, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, sallowness, elasticity",
        "finding": "Double-blind split-face, 5% niacinamide, 12 weeks: significant reductions in fine lines, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness and sallowness; improved elasticity.",
        "formulation": "5% niacinamide"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18492135/",
        "journal": "Int J Cosmetic Science",
        "year": 2004,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, hyperpigmented spots",
        "finding": "Confirmed reductions in yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots.",
        "formulation": null
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "aha",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "AHAs (glycolic/lactic)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "Studied in relation to smoother, more refined-looking skin over time.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8651713/",
        "journal": "Archives of Dermatology",
        "year": 1996,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Vehicle-controlled trial",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "8%",
          "76%",
          "71%",
          "40%"
        ],
        "outcome": "photodamage",
        "finding": "Vehicle-controlled: 8% glycolic and 8% lactic creams improved photodamage in 76%/71% of facial sides vs 40% vehicle.",
        "formulation": "8% glycolic cream, 8% lactic cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8642081/",
        "journal": "J Am Acad Dermatol",
        "year": 1996,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "25%"
        ],
        "outcome": "skin thickness, dermal remodelling",
        "finding": "AHAs produced ~25% increase in skin thickness with epidermal and dermal remodelling.",
        "formulation": null
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "salicylic-acid",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Salicylic acid (BHA)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "Studied in relation to clearer, less congested skin. Most of the record is in-clinic peels rather than the products on a shelf.",
    "caveat": "The everyday leave-on comparison rests on low-quality evidence from a small trial. Salicylic acid evidence is not equivalent to tretinoin evidence, and timing depends on the formulation you are holding.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32356369/",
        "journal": "Cochrane Database Syst Rev",
        "year": 2020,
        "n": 46,
        "design": "Cochrane review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "acne",
        "finding": "Cochrane review: for people rating their own acne there may be little or no difference between salicylic acid and tretinoin, on low-quality evidence from 46 participants. Risk of bias and imprecision limit confidence.",
        "formulation": "leave-on topical"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26347269/",
        "journal": "Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol",
        "year": 2015,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "acne, comedones",
        "finding": "Review of salicylic acid AS A PEELING AGENT: its comedolytic action makes it a useful peel for acne across skin types. It does not study leave-on products.",
        "formulation": "in-clinic chemical peel"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21896127/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2011,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Randomized controlled peel trial",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "48.5%"
        ],
        "outcome": "non-inflammatory acne lesions",
        "finding": "Peel RCT: reduced non-inflammatory lesions (~48.5% from baseline by Day 98).",
        "formulation": "in-clinic chemical peel"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "hyaluronic-acid",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Hyaluronic acid (topical)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "One 60-day, 0.1% periocular study reported hydration and elasticity improvements across the tested molecular weights; wrinkle-depth improvement was limited to the 50 and 130 kDa arms.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22052267/",
        "journal": "J Drugs Dermatol",
        "year": 2011,
        "n": 76,
        "design": "Split-area, vehicle-controlled study",
        "duration": "60 days",
        "percentages": [
          "0.1%"
        ],
        "outcome": "periocular hydration, periocular elasticity, periocular wrinkle depth",
        "finding": "Split-area, vehicle-controlled study in 76 women over 60 days: all five 0.1% periocular hyaluronan preparations improved measured hydration and elasticity versus vehicle; wrinkle-depth improvement was reported only for the 50 and 130 kDa arms. The paper’s penetration explanation is speculative, not a demonstrated outcome.",
        "formulation": "0.1% hyaluronan at 50, 130, 300, 800 or 2,000 kDa"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "ceramides",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Ceramides",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "Studied in relation to a stronger, better-hydrated skin barrier. Part of the skin’s own lipid structure.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10162745/",
        "journal": "Indian J Dermatol",
        "year": 2023,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Systematic review and meta-analysis of five studies",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "atopic-dermatitis severity, transepidermal water loss",
        "finding": "Systematic review and meta-analysis in atopic dermatitis, five studies: ceramide-containing moisturisers improved SCORAD against other moisturisers (mean difference -0.98, P=0.003). Transepidermal water loss was NOT significantly different (-3.56, P=0.17, high heterogeneity).",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22812593/",
        "journal": "J Dermatolog Treat",
        "year": 2013,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Randomized, investigator-blinded, intra-individual comparison",
        "duration": "4 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "transepidermal water loss, dryness, hydration",
        "finding": "Randomised, investigator-blinded, intra-individual comparison in patients with controlled atopic dermatitis: a ceramide-precursor moisturiser on one lower leg against the untreated other leg for 4 weeks gave greater reduction in transepidermal water loss and clinical dryness and higher hydration (all P<.01).",
        "formulation": null
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "palmitoyl-pentapeptide-4",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (pal-KTTKS)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "The held evidence is specific to Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (pal-KTTKS), not to peptides as a class.",
    "caveat": "The permeation study used ex-vivo hairless-mouse skin and detected neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS in receptor solution. The clinical literature named by the review concerns Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 specifically.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25143811/",
        "journal": "Biomol Ther (Seoul)",
        "year": 2014,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "ex-vivo hairless-mouse skin distribution, dermal stability",
        "finding": "Ex-vivo full-thickness hairless-mouse skin: neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS reached receptor solution. KTTKS was absent from the measured skin layers; pal-KTTKS was detected in stratum corneum and epidermis, with a small dermal amount. This is animal-skin distribution evidence, not human permeation.",
        "formulation": "KTTKS, palmitoyl-KTTKS"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016",
        "journal": "Cosmetics",
        "year": 2017,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Narrative review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "narrative review of topical peptide treatments",
        "finding": "Narrative review names Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 as the well-researched molecule and cites Robinson et al. 2005 for a controlled study in photoaged human facial skin. It does not establish a result for peptides as a class.",
        "formulation": "Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "kttks",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "KTTKS (Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "The held evidence is an ex-vivo stability and distribution study of the exact KTTKS sequence in hairless-mouse skin.",
    "caveat": "Unmodified KTTKS was absent from every measured skin layer and from receptor solution. The Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 clinical literature does not transfer to KTTKS.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25143811/",
        "journal": "Biomol Ther (Seoul)",
        "year": 2014,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "ex-vivo hairless-mouse skin distribution, dermal stability",
        "finding": "Ex-vivo full-thickness hairless-mouse skin: neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS reached receptor solution. Unmodified KTTKS was absent from the measured skin layers, while pal-KTTKS was detected in stratum corneum and epidermis with a small dermal amount. This does not establish human permeation or a clinical effect for KTTKS.",
        "formulation": "KTTKS, palmitoyl-KTTKS"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "spf",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Sunscreen / SPF",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "One of the best-studied things you can do in relation to keeping skin looking younger over time. The prevention step that’s hard to beat.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23732711/",
        "journal": "Annals of Internal Medicine",
        "year": 2013,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Randomized controlled trial",
        "duration": "4.5 years",
        "percentages": [
          "24%",
          "95% CI 0.59–0.98"
        ],
        "outcome": "skin aging",
        "finding": "RCT, 4.5 years: daily-sunscreen group showed 24% less skin aging than discretionary use (OR 0.76, 95% CI 0.59–0.98).",
        "formulation": "broad-spectrum SPF 15+, daily"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "azelaic-acid",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Azelaic acid",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Well studied in relation to calmer, clearer, more even-looking skin. And tends to be gentle.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15923",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol (43-trial review)",
        "year": 2023,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "15–20%",
          "20%"
        ],
        "outcome": "acne, rosacea, melasma",
        "finding": "15–20% azelaic acid gave meaningful improvement across acne, rosacea and melasma; 20% comparable to hydroquinone for melasma.",
        "formulation": "15–20% azelaic acid"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "benzoyl-peroxide",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Benzoyl peroxide",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Well studied in relation to clearer skin. A long-standing, dermatologist-backed option for breakouts.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11472206/",
        "journal": "Cureus",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": 4596,
        "design": "Systematic review of eight randomized controlled trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "27.5% to 70.2%"
        ],
        "outcome": "acne",
        "finding": "Systematic review of 8 randomised controlled trials, 4,596 patients, compared against vehicle or single-agent treatment: acne lesion reduction ranged from 27.5% to 70.2%, and the review concludes the combination is safe and effective. It also states that combining a retinoid with benzoyl peroxide does not contribute to antibiotic resistance.",
        "formulation": "adapalene with benzoyl peroxide"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "panthenol",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "Studied in relation to soothed, better-hydrated skin. A gentle barrier supporter.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12113650/",
        "journal": "Am J Clin Dermatol",
        "year": 2002,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "stratum-corneum hydration, barrier function",
        "finding": "Topical dexpanthenol acts as a humectant and barrier enhancer, increasing stratum-corneum hydration.",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235",
        "journal": "J Dermatolog Treat",
        "year": 2017,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Two randomized controlled trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "hydration, barrier restoration",
        "finding": "Two RCTs: panthenol emollient improved hydration and barrier-restoration vs control.",
        "formulation": "panthenol emollient"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "centella",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Centella asiatica (cica)",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "Encouraging early evidence in relation to calmer, more comfortable skin. A long-used soothing botanical.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11510310/",
        "journal": "Pharmaceutics",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Review including one split-face, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "0.05%"
        ],
        "outcome": "post-laser erythema, collagen synthesis",
        "finding": "Review of topical Centella asiatica. The one controlled human result it reports for erythema is a split-face, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of 0.05% standardised ECa 233 gel after laser resurfacing for acne scars, in which erythema subsided by day 7 against day 28 on the placebo side (Damkerngsuntorn et al. 2020). The review also describes the actives enhancing collagen synthesis and modulating inflammation.",
        "formulation": "standardised Centella extract"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18484522/",
        "journal": "J Ethnopharmacol",
        "year": 2008,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "wound healing",
        "finding": "Madecassoside facilitated wound healing via antioxidative activity and collagen synthesis (pre-clinical).",
        "formulation": "madecassoside"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "zinc",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Zinc",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "Limited but consistent evidence in relation to calmer, clearer skin. More supportive than central.",
    "caveat": null,
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.14252",
        "journal": "Dermatol Ther",
        "year": 2020,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Systematic review and meta-analysis",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "inflammatory papule count, serum zinc",
        "finding": "Systematic review and meta-analysis: acne patients had significantly lower serum zinc; zinc reduced inflammatory papule counts as mono- or adjunct therapy.",
        "formulation": null
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23652948/",
        "journal": "J Drugs Dermatol",
        "year": 2013,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "acne, sebum",
        "finding": "Zinc has antibacterial/anti-inflammatory and sebum-reducing effects; recommendation strength B (limited-quality evidence).",
        "formulation": null
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "tranexamic-acid-topical",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Tranexamic Acid",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "One small vehicle-controlled trial found 5% topical tranexamic acid no better than its vehicle after 12 weeks and reported more redness.",
    "caveat": "The dedicated topical trial enrolled 23 women and 21 completed. A 22-trial review mixed topical, injected, and oral routes and had high heterogeneity. A separate 99-person study compared tranexamic-acid and niacinamide combination creams with 4% hydroquinone, so it did not isolate tranexamic acid or prove the formulas equivalent.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22506692/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Laser Ther",
        "year": 2012,
        "n": 23,
        "design": "Double-blind split-face trial",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "5%"
        ],
        "outcome": "melanin index, melasma severity, erythema",
        "finding": "Double-blind 12-week split-face trial: 23 women enrolled and 21 completed. The 5% tranexamic acid side was neither superior nor different from vehicle for pigmentation, while erythema was significantly higher on the tranexamic-acid side.",
        "formulation": "5% topical tranexamic acid gel, vehicle gel"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38843906/",
        "journal": "J Dermatolog Treat",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": 1280,
        "design": "Systematic review and meta-analysis of 22 randomized trials",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "melasma severity, adverse effects",
        "finding": "Systematic review and meta-analysis of 22 randomised trials with 1,280 patients. Oral treatment showed the largest pooled MASI decrease, followed by injections and topical applications; studies had high heterogeneity, especially among combination treatments.",
        "formulation": "oral tranexamic acid, injected tranexamic acid, topical tranexamic acid"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41315336/",
        "journal": "Sci Rep",
        "year": 2025,
        "n": 99,
        "design": "Randomized double-blind active-comparator trial",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "4%"
        ],
        "outcome": "melanin index, melasma severity, quality of life, adverse reactions, relapse",
        "finding": "Randomised double-blind 99-person comparison of two tranexamic-acid and niacinamide combination creams with 4% hydroquinone. Because neither test cream isolated tranexamic acid and the comparator was active, the trial does not establish tranexamic acid alone or prove equivalence.",
        "formulation": "2% tranexamic acid with 2% niacinamide niosomal cream, 5% tranexamic acid with 4% niacinamide conventional cream, 4% hydroquinone cream"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "retinal",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Retinaldehyde",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "Two small controlled studies found retinaldehyde improved fine lines or skin elasticity versus a plain cream, with less irritation than retinoic acid.",
    "caveat": "Both controlled studies are more than 25 years old; samples were small and several secondary measurements did not improve.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9843009/",
        "journal": "J Am Acad Dermatol",
        "year": 1998,
        "n": 125,
        "design": "Randomized vehicle-controlled trial",
        "duration": "44 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "wrinkle profilometry, skin roughness, tolerability",
        "finding": "Randomized vehicle-controlled trial in 125 people over 44 weeks: retinaldehyde and retinoic acid improved wrinkle and roughness measures while vehicle did not; retinoic acid was more irritating than retinaldehyde.",
        "formulation": "0.05% retinaldehyde cream, 0.05% retinoic acid cream, vehicle cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10473959/",
        "journal": "Dermatology",
        "year": 1999,
        "n": 40,
        "design": "Controlled study",
        "duration": "1 year",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "epidermal thickness, skin elasticity, dermal thickness, skin stiffness",
        "finding": "One-year controlled study in 40 people: retinaldehyde increased epidermal thickness and elasticity versus control, while dermal thickness and stiffness did not significantly change.",
        "formulation": "0.05% retinaldehyde cream"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "kojic-acid",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Kojic Acid",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "One 12-week study compared 1% kojic acid alone with three combinations and found the hydroquinone combination performed best; a newer pilot found an alpha-arbutin and kojic-acid cream similar to triple therapy on two pigmentation scores.",
    "caveat": "Neither study proves kojic acid alone against a plain cream: the first was single-blind, single-centre and had no vehicle arm; the newer study was a 30-person combination pilot and did not isolate kojic acid.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23918998/",
        "journal": "Indian J Dermatol",
        "year": 2013,
        "n": 80,
        "design": "Randomized single-blind study",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "melasma area and severity index",
        "finding": "Randomized single-blind, single-centre study in 80 people over 12 weeks: the kojic-acid and hydroquinone combination had the greatest decrease in melasma severity, followed by the triple combination and kojic acid alone; every arm contained kojic acid and there was no vehicle control.",
        "formulation": "1% kojic acid cream, 1% kojic acid + 2% hydroquinone cream, 1% kojic acid + 0.1% betamethasone valerate cream, 1% kojic acid + 2% hydroquinone + 0.1% betamethasone valerate cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39555866/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2025,
        "n": 30,
        "design": "Split-face randomized evaluator-blinded pilot",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "melanin index, modified melasma area severity index, physician global assessment, recurrence, adverse effects",
        "finding": "Split-face randomized evaluator-blinded pilot in 30 people over 12 weeks plus four weeks follow-up: melanin-index and modified-MASI changes did not differ between the alpha-arbutin/kojic-acid cream and triple therapy; physician assessment improved only on the triple-therapy side, while recurrence severity, erythema and stinging were higher there. Kojic acid was not tested alone.",
        "formulation": "5% alpha-arbutin + 2% kojic acid cream, triple combination cream"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "bakuchiol",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Bakuchiol",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "In one 12-week trial of 44 people, 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily and 0.5% retinol once daily both improved wrinkles and pigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between groups; retinol caused more scaling and stinging.",
    "caveat": "This was one small head-to-head study with no plain-cream arm and different dosing schedules, not a non-inferiority or equivalence trial. Most other human studies in a systematic review were uncontrolled or tested combination formulas, and none of these sources establishes pregnancy safety.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/",
        "journal": "Br J Dermatol",
        "year": 2019,
        "n": 44,
        "design": "Randomized double-blind head-to-head study",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "wrinkle surface area, hyperpigmentation, scaling, stinging",
        "finding": "Randomized double-blind head-to-head study in 44 people over 12 weeks: both groups improved from baseline on wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between groups; retinol users reported more scaling and stinging. There was no vehicle arm and the schedules differed.",
        "formulation": "0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily, 0.5% retinol cream once daily"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36176207/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2022,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Systematic review of 29 reports",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "photoageing, acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, adverse events",
        "finding": "Systematic review of 29 included reports found 16 preclinical studies and seven clinical studies; the evidence base was predominantly preclinical and the authors called for additional rigorous controlled human trials.",
        "formulation": "bakuchiol alone or in combination formulas"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/41562471/",
        "journal": "Skin Res Technol",
        "year": 2026,
        "n": 80,
        "design": "Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "skin lightness, colour evenness, spots, roughness, melanin, erythema, acne, elasticity",
        "finding": "Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial in 80 men over 12 weeks: the combination modestly improved lightness, colour evenness, spots and some roughness measures, but not melanin, erythema, acne or elasticity. Bakuchiol was not tested alone.",
        "formulation": "genistein, bakuchiol, vitamins and ceramides combination product"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "urea",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Urea",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "5% urea moisturisers helped eczema-prone skin stay relapse-free longer, while reviews distinguish moisturising use at up to 10% from stronger keratolytic use above 10%.",
    "caveat": "The trials studied complete moisturiser formulas, mostly as maintenance after eczema had cleared; they do not prove that every urea product performs the same way.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25594845/",
        "journal": "Acta Derm Venereol",
        "year": 2015,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Multicentre randomized double-blind controlled trial",
        "duration": "6 months",
        "percentages": [
          "5%",
          "37%"
        ],
        "outcome": "eczema relapse risk, time to relapse",
        "finding": "Six-month multicentre randomized double-blind controlled trial in atopic dermatitis: the 5% urea cream reduced relapse risk by 37% versus a reference moisturiser and prolonged median time to relapse from 15 to 22 days.",
        "formulation": "5% urea barrier-improving cream, reference moisturising cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19508310/",
        "journal": "J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol",
        "year": 2009,
        "n": 44,
        "design": "Randomized maintenance study",
        "duration": "26 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "68%",
          "32%"
        ],
        "outcome": "relapse-free maintenance, time to relapse",
        "finding": "Randomized 26-week maintenance study in 44 people whose atopic eczema had cleared: 68% using the urea moisturiser remained relapse-free versus 32% with no treatment; median time to relapse was more than 180 versus 30 days.",
        "formulation": "urea-containing barrier moisturiser, no maintenance treatment"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17300239/",
        "journal": "Br J Dermatol",
        "year": 2007,
        "n": 78,
        "design": "Randomized forearm study",
        "duration": "7 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "5%"
        ],
        "outcome": "transepidermal water loss, irritant response",
        "finding": "Seven-week randomized forearm study in 78 volunteers: the ordinary 5% urea cream decreased transepidermal water loss and reduced susceptibility to an irritant, while some simplified moisturisers weakened barrier measures.",
        "formulation": "5% urea cream, four other experimental moisturisers"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30378232/",
        "journal": "Dermatol Ther",
        "year": 2018,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Clinical literature review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "10%"
        ],
        "outcome": "moisturising action, keratolytic action",
        "finding": "Clinical-literature review: urea formulations at 10% or less act mainly as moisturisers, while concentrations above 10% exert a keratolytic action.",
        "formulation": "urea-containing topical formulations at 10% or less, urea-based preparations above 10%"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "glycerin",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Glycerin",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "Human studies of complete creams found that 20% glycerin increased measured skin hydration; effects on other endpoints depended on the formulation.",
    "caveat": "These studies tested complete creams, not glycerin in isolation. One short vehicle-controlled study found no added improvement in transepidermal water loss or surfactant response, and a separate comparator trial found equal improvement in dryness rather than superiority.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18498456/",
        "journal": "Int J Cosmet Sci",
        "year": 2001,
        "n": 17,
        "design": "Bilateral randomized double-blind study",
        "duration": "10 days",
        "percentages": [
          "20%"
        ],
        "outcome": "skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, sodium lauryl sulphate irritation response",
        "finding": "Bilateral randomized double-blind study in 17 healthy volunteers over 10 days: the 20% glycerin cream increased measured skin hydration versus vehicle, but did not improve transepidermal water loss or the response to sodium lauryl sulphate.",
        "formulation": "20% glycerin cream, vehicle cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12013198/",
        "journal": "Acta Derm Venereol",
        "year": 2002,
        "n": 197,
        "design": "Randomized double-blind study",
        "duration": "30 days",
        "percentages": [
          "10%",
          "24%"
        ],
        "outcome": "dryness, smarting",
        "finding": "Randomized double-blind study in 197 people with atopic dermatitis over 30 days: dryness improved equally with the glycerin and urea/saline creams; moderate or severe smarting was reported by 10% with glycerin versus 24% with urea/saline.",
        "formulation": "20% glycerin cream, cream base without glycerin, 4% urea plus 4% sodium chloride cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31532576/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2020,
        "n": 51,
        "design": "Randomized double-blind four-arm crossover study",
        "duration": "12 hours",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "transepidermal water loss, corneometry",
        "finding": "Randomized double-blind four-arm crossover study in 51 people measured over 12 hours: the complete emollient outperformed vehicle; the glycerol component contributed to hydration while petrolatum contributed to the transepidermal-water-loss effect.",
        "formulation": "glycerol plus petrolatum emollient, vehicle, vehicle plus glycerol, vehicle plus petrolatum"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "colloidal-oatmeal",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Colloidal oatmeal",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "strong",
    "gradeLabel": "Strong",
    "claim": "A complete 1% colloidal oatmeal cream was non-inferior to a named prescription barrier cream over three weeks in 90 children with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis.",
    "caveat": "The non-inferiority result applies to the tested complete 1% cream and its prescription barrier-cream comparator, not colloidal oatmeal in isolation. The hand-eczema study used fluocinolone for the first two weeks before the oatmeal-versus-base phase. FDA monograph concentrations are regulatory facts, not clinical efficacy thresholds.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28366039/",
        "journal": "J Dermatolog Treat",
        "year": 2017,
        "n": 90,
        "design": "Double-blind randomized active-controlled study",
        "duration": "3 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "1%"
        ],
        "outcome": "eczema area and severity index, itch, global atopic-dermatitis assessment",
        "finding": "Double-blind randomized active-controlled study in 90 children over three weeks: the complete 1% colloidal oatmeal cream was non-inferior to the prescription barrier cream for EASI, using a prespecified 1.5-point non-inferiority margin.",
        "formulation": "complete 1% colloidal oatmeal cream, ceramide-based prescription barrier cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32273745/",
        "journal": "Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol",
        "year": 2020,
        "n": 50,
        "design": "Double-blind randomized study",
        "duration": "6 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "hand eczema severity, itch, dermatology life quality index",
        "finding": "Double-blind randomized study with 50 completers: both groups improved during the two-week fluocinolone lead-in; during the following four weeks, the oatmeal arm held improvement while symptoms in the base-cream arm returned toward baseline.",
        "formulation": "fluocinolone 0.025% for two weeks followed by 1% colloidal oatmeal cream, fluocinolone 0.025% for two weeks followed by base cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/monographs/OTCMonograph_M016SkinProtectantDrugProductsforOTCHumanUse09242021.pdf",
        "journal": "FDA OTC Monograph M016",
        "year": 2021,
        "n": null,
        "design": null,
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "0.007%",
          "0.003%"
        ],
        "outcome": "skin-protectant regulatory status",
        "finding": "The US OTC skin-protectant monograph names colloidal oatmeal itself as an active ingredient at a minimum 0.007%, or 0.003% when combined with mineral oil under the specified monograph condition.",
        "formulation": "colloidal oatmeal at 0.007% minimum, colloidal oatmeal at 0.003% minimum with mineral oil"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "ectoin",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Ectoin",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "moderate",
    "gradeLabel": "Moderate",
    "claim": "Short clinical studies of ectoin-containing creams reported improved eczema severity scores; the vehicle-controlled trial used ectoin together with hyaluronic acid.",
    "caveat": "Studies were small and short. One used an active comparator rather than a plain vehicle, one tested ectoin with hyaluronic acid, and the systematic review had an industry-employed author. They do not prove every ectoin product works the same way.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23949258/",
        "journal": "Skin Pharmacol Physiol",
        "year": 2014,
        "n": 65,
        "design": "Randomized intra-individual double-blind multicentre trial",
        "duration": "28 days",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "local eczema severity, investigator assessment, itch",
        "finding": "Randomized intra-individual double-blind multicentre trial in 65 adults with mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis: after 28 days, the ectoin-containing cream performed equivalently to an active nonsteroidal reference cream. There was no plain-vehicle arm.",
        "formulation": "ectoin-containing cream EHK02-01, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory reference cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36038984/",
        "journal": "Pediatr Dermatol",
        "year": 2023,
        "n": 70,
        "design": "Randomized observer-blind vehicle-controlled trial",
        "duration": "4 weeks",
        "percentages": [
          "23.5%",
          "5.7%"
        ],
        "outcome": "objective SCORAD, investigator assessment, itch, cutaneous adverse events",
        "finding": "Randomized observer-blind vehicle-controlled four-week trial in children aged 2–18: 70 were randomized and 57 analysed; the combination cream improved objective SCORAD versus vehicle (P < .001), but ectoin was not tested alone. Mild cutaneous adverse events occurred in 23.5% versus 5.7%.",
        "formulation": "1% ectoine with 0.1% hyaluronic acid cream, vehicle cream"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35038127/",
        "journal": "Dermatol Ther (Heidelb)",
        "year": 2022,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Systematic review of six clinical studies",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "skin dryness, itch, dermatitis severity",
        "finding": "Systematic review of six clinical studies (five in atopic dermatitis, one in retinoid dermatitis): outcomes generally favoured ectoin-containing formulations, but many studies were open-label, adjunctive or low-certainty and one author was employed by Bitop AG.",
        "formulation": "5.5–7% ectoin-containing topical formulations"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "ferulic-acid",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Ferulic Acid",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "Small human studies found less UV-related redness and damage markers after four days with complete antioxidant combinations containing ferulic acid.",
    "caveat": "Ferulic acid was never isolated from the vitamin C, vitamin E or phloretin formulas. One human trial had 10 participants, another reported only a small sample, and the widely cited eightfold result came from pig, not human, skin. These formulas may complement sunscreen; they do not replace it.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16185284/",
        "journal": "J Invest Dermatol",
        "year": 2005,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Porcine-skin study",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [
          "0.5%"
        ],
        "outcome": "formula stability, erythema, sunburn cells, thymine dimers",
        "finding": "Porcine-skin study: adding 0.5% ferulic acid stabilized the vitamin C and E formula and increased its reported photoprotection from about fourfold to about eightfold. This was pig, not human, skin and did not test ferulic acid alone.",
        "formulation": "15% L-ascorbic acid with 1% alpha-tocopherol, the same formula with 0.5% ferulic acid"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18603326/",
        "journal": "J Am Acad Dermatol",
        "year": 2008,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Human in-vivo study",
        "duration": "4 days",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "erythema, sunburn cells, thymine dimers, p53, inflammatory cytokines",
        "finding": "Small human in-vivo study over four days: the complete vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid formula reduced several solar-simulated-radiation damage markers versus vehicle. The abstract did not report the sample size, and ferulic acid was not isolated.",
        "formulation": "15% L-ascorbic acid with 1% alpha-tocopherol and 0.5% ferulic acid, vehicle"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19146606/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2009,
        "n": 10,
        "design": "Randomized human study",
        "duration": "4 days",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "erythema, sunburn cells, thymine dimers, MMP-9, p53, Langerhans cells",
        "finding": "Randomized four-day human study in 10 participants: the complete vitamin C, ferulic acid and phloretin formula reduced several UV-related damage markers versus vehicle. Ferulic acid was not tested alone, and one author was affiliated with L’Oreal USA.",
        "formulation": "vitamin C with ferulic acid and phloretin, vehicle"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  },
  {
    "id": "snail-mucin",
    "idVersion": 1,
    "ingredient": "Snail Secretion Filtrate",
    "route": "topical",
    "grade": "limited",
    "gradeLabel": "Limited",
    "claim": "One small placebo-controlled trial found fewer inflammatory lesions with a three-ingredient serum containing snail secretion filtrate.",
    "caveat": "The serum also contained calendula and licorice, so the effect cannot be attributed to snail secretion filtrate alone. Non-inflammatory lesions and measured skin biophysics did not differ; a 2024 review found most wider claims rest on preclinical or small clinical studies.",
    "published": "2026-09-19",
    "sources": [
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35763437/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2022,
        "n": 66,
        "design": "Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial",
        "duration": "12 weeks",
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "inflammatory acne lesions, non-inflammatory acne lesions, sebum, corneometry, transepidermal water loss, erythema",
        "finding": "Twelve-week randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial in 66 people with mild-to-moderate mask-related acne: the three-ingredient serum reduced inflammatory lesions more than placebo, while non-inflammatory lesions and measured skin biophysics did not significantly differ. Snail secretion filtrate was not tested alone.",
        "formulation": "snail secretion filtrate, calendula and licorice serum, placebo serum"
      },
      {
        "url": "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38429932/",
        "journal": "J Cosmet Dermatol",
        "year": 2024,
        "n": null,
        "design": "Literature review",
        "duration": null,
        "percentages": [],
        "outcome": "clinical evidence limitations, allergy investigation, ethical extraction",
        "finding": "Literature review of medical and cosmetic uses: most studies were preclinical or small clinical studies, and larger clinical trials are needed to support claimed benefits and clarify safety and ethical-extraction questions.",
        "formulation": "snail mucin and snail extract preparations"
      }
    ],
    "peopleReport": null
  }
]
